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L’Escargot is Soho as Soho sees itself

But the dining room is hideous

9 August 2014

9:00 AM

9 August 2014

9:00 AM

L’Escargot, or the Snail, is a famous restaurant on Greek Street, Soho, opposite the old Establishment club; the oldest French restaurant in London, they say (1927), and who am I to argue? It is the type of restaurant that non-Londoners have heard of and used to visit. They passed photographs of Larry Olivier and Mick Jagger staring glumly at them as they took off their overcoats in the hallway for a pre- or post-theatre supper; despite this, or maybe because of it, the Snail fell into a long and sad decline.

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L’Escargot, Greek Street, London W1D 4EF; tel: 020 7439 7474.

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