Food

A small victory in a bad year: José Pizarro at the RA reviewed

27 November 2021 9:00 am

Piccadilly is losing its patina of dirt, its cadaverous character. It is overpriced and over-renovated,a meeting place for luxury goods.…

Sentenced to chicken: NoMad reviewed

13 November 2021 9:00 am

NoMad is a new hotel in what used to be Bow Street Magistrates’ Court: a preening piece of mid-Victorian classicism…

Dregs of fake Provence: Whitcomb’s reviewed

30 October 2021 9:00 am

Whitcomb’s is in The Londoner hotel on the south-west corner of Leicester Square. The Londoner calls itself ‘the world’s first…

The Batman restaurant that’s totally bats: Park Row reviewed

16 October 2021 9:00 am

There is a Batman restaurant in London, or rather there was: Savini at the Criterion on Piccadilly Circus. Savini was…

The real Greek: Lemonia reviewed

2 October 2021 9:00 am

Lemonia lives in the old Chalk Farm Tavern in Primrose Hill, which is better known as the set of Paddington.…

Dining in nowhere: Bar des Prés reviewed

18 September 2021 9:00 am

The residents of Mayfair are misnamed: they do not really live here. They live in Mayfair like I live on…

Scarface’s lair with nibbles: Louie reviewed

4 September 2021 9:00 am

A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter,…

‘Lifeless and necrotic’: Native at Browns is an ode to joylessness

21 August 2021 9:00 am

Browns is a famous fashion boutique in deepest Mayfair. It occupies a curved cream townhouse on Brook Street, which seems…

High on the hog: The Pig at Bridge Place reviewed

7 August 2021 9:00 am

The Pig at Bridge Place is not a pig in possession of a country house, but I would be for…

A Damascene moment in London: Imad’s Syrian Kitchen reviewed

24 July 2021 9:00 am

Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is an eyrie off Carnaby Street, a once-famous road which seems to exist nowadays to sell trainers…

An utterly convincing dreamworld: The Ritz reviewed

10 July 2021 9:00 am

The Ritz is still here, and still gaudy. No grand hotel in London feels quite so complete, if pink; as…

Harry Potter meets Ikea: Backlot Cafe reviewed

26 June 2021 9:00 am

Harry Potter is a fictional orphan locked in a cupboard by his aunt and uncle, after which he discovers a…

A careful parody: Noble Rot Soho reviewed

12 June 2021 9:00 am

Noble Rot sits in Greek Street, Soho, on the site of the old Gay Hussar, which squatted here from 1953…

Bad food is back: The Roof Garden at Pantechnicon reviewed

29 May 2021 9:00 am

The Roof Garden is a pale, Nordic-style restaurant at the top of the glorious Pantechnicon in Belgravia — formerly a…

Pretty food with a side order of pollution: 28-50 reviewed

15 May 2021 9:00 am

You cannot have cars and dining tables in the same dreamscape: it doesn’t work, unless you think carbon monoxide is…

Pleasing perversity: St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys reviewed

1 May 2021 9:00 am

The St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys is as expansive as its name, but ghostly. It is an…

Back to the future: Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill reviewed

17 April 2021 9:00 am

The west end of London is still pale and necrotic, but there are points of light. Hatchards the bookseller is…

Spring lamb and the bread of affliction: our Zoom seder

3 April 2021 9:00 am

This week my son came home from school and asked me if it was true that the Jews killed Jesus.…

The finest humous in England: Arabica food boxes reviewed

20 March 2021 9:00 am

Restaurant-goers who cannot let go of restaurants — for professional or other reasons — are floating on a sea of…

Cornwall, but not as the locals know it: Stein’s at Home reviewed

6 March 2021 9:00 am

The Stein’s at Home steak menu box (£65) says ‘Love from Cornwall’: it is not for people who live in…

Feasting on memories of Venice

20 February 2021 9:00 am

Dining in catastrophe used to be more interesting: but we must be fair. It was a smaller (and wetter) catastrophe:…

Dull food for dull times: the Morrisons family food box reviewed

6 February 2021 9:00 am

The Compass Group boast of serving 5.5 billion meals a year, so you might think they would be good at…

Piccadilly Circus, delivered: the Wolseley’s home dining reviewed

23 January 2021 9:00 am

The Corbin & King dining and home entertaining box includes dishes from the Delaunay, the Wolseley and Brasserie Zédel ‘delivered…

Sub-ready-meals of salt and tears: Simply Cook reviewed

9 January 2021 9:00 am

Welcome to the sunlit uplands which, for me, contain small plastic tubs of stock, which is just the opening to…

Food to absorb alcohol: Christmas hampers reviewed

19 December 2020 9:00 am

There is straw inside the Fortnum & Mason Christmas Treat Hamper (£100). As the straw drifts through the house, it…