London

The perfect restaurant for the Labour party: Arcade reviewed

21 May 2022 9:00 am

I should know better than to visit restaurants assembled as if from disparate bricks, like thrift-shop Duplo: but the ever-credulous…

The Harrods disadvantage: Em Sherif reviewed

23 April 2022 9:00 am

I am never bored with Harrods, only disgusted, and it is disgust of the most animated and exciting kind. It…

£120 steak that looks like a M&S meal deal: The Maine reviewed

9 April 2022 9:00 am

Last week Chris Corbin and Jeremy King lost controlof the restaurant group they founded: Corbin & King, which made theWolseley,…

Covid has changed London for the better

2 April 2022 9:00 am

Covid has changed London for the better

The best lamb in London: Blacklock reviewed

26 March 2022 9:00 am

Blacklock is the fourth restaurant of that name – there are others in Soho, Shoreditch and the City of London.…

Britain’s money laundering scandal goes back a long way

26 March 2022 9:00 am

The war in Ukraine has turned a lot of people’s attention to oligarchs in the UK. How did these guys…

Food ruined by an existential crisis: Fallow reviewed

12 March 2022 9:00 am

I was going to be jolly this week, for variety and denial, but I changed my mind. Instead, I wonder…

I’ve found a little Eden in London

5 March 2022 9:00 am

I’m not one of life’s early risers but an exception had to be made on Wednesday last week. In an…

A victim of its own mythology: Langan’s Brasserie reviewed

26 February 2022 9:00 am

Langan’s, a brasserie off Piccadilly with curling orange neon signage calling its name, is under new management after it fell…

Pass on Piggy’s, head to Hide: central London breakfasts reviewed

12 February 2022 9:00 am

The centre could not hold, at least for Piggy’s. The drama of being the only greasy spoon in the West…

A modern Medea: Iron Curtain, by Vesna Goldsworthy, reviewed

5 February 2022 9:00 am

Vesna Goldsworthy’s finely wrought third novel explodes into life early on with a shocking scene in which Misha — the…

The best schnitzel in London: Schnitzel Forever reviewed

15 January 2022 9:00 am

It is a truism that there is never enough schnitzel (‘slice’, German); or, rather, schnitzel does not get the attention…

Who is – and isn't – welcome in Sadiq Khan's London?

22 November 2021 8:49 pm

Right-wing Frenchman Eric Zemmour, who is expected to run for the presidency of his country next year, has been designated persona…

Lord Lucan, Joan Collins and the greatest dinner ever

6 November 2021 9:00 am

There’s a narrow stretch of Chelsea, south of the King’s Road from Oakley Street to Ormonde Gate, that reminds me…

Dregs of fake Provence: Whitcomb’s reviewed

30 October 2021 9:00 am

Whitcomb’s is in The Londoner hotel on the south-west corner of Leicester Square. The Londoner calls itself ‘the world’s first…

The real Greek: Lemonia reviewed

2 October 2021 9:00 am

Lemonia lives in the old Chalk Farm Tavern in Primrose Hill, which is better known as the set of Paddington.…

Harriet Harman calls for Cressida Dick to resign

1 October 2021 8:53 pm

Labour’s Harriet Harman has called for Cressida Dick to resign as chief of the Metropolitan Police after Wayne Couzens was…

I was the next Truman Capote

25 September 2021 9:00 am

It’s nice to be back in London, and Glebe Place is a delight. Mind you, it’s not the mansion I…

Scarface’s lair with nibbles: Louie reviewed

4 September 2021 9:00 am

A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter,…

At last, a dose of up-close culture in London

4 September 2021 9:00 am

In London for the first time in 18 months, I was as excited as a child on a birthday outing.…

The watery life of the capital

4 September 2021 9:00 am

To write about London and its rivers is to enter a crowded literary field. Many aspects of watery life in…

France's provocateur is coming to London

3 September 2021 7:34 am

Five years ago, London’s affluent French poured their dosh into the campaign of Emmanuel Macron. This time around, supporters of…

The Liberal Democrats have a dangerous vision for the City of London

31 August 2021 5:53 am

Liberals have always set great store by laws and declarations. It was joked about Lord Loreburn, the liberal Lord Chancellor…

A glimpse of lost London – before the yuppie invasion

28 August 2021 9:00 am

In a 1923 book called Echo de Paris, the writer Laurence Houseman attempted to conjure up in a very slim,…

How two literary magazines boosted morale during the Blitz

31 July 2021 9:00 am

William Loxley’s lively account of ‘Bloomsbury, the Blitz and Horizon magazine’ begins with W.H. Auden and Christopher Isherwood emigrating to…