Food

Ideal for winter: The Dover reviewed

30 November 2024 9:00 am

For British people, America is an idea brought by cinema, and The Dover, the New York Italian bar and restaurant…

What does the City really think of the Chancellor?

23 November 2024 9:00 am

Regular invitations to Mansion House banquets petered out after I asked a shifty-looking waiter for a glass of champagne and…

A light in the darkness: Home Kitchen reviewed

16 November 2024 9:00 am

Home Kitchen is in Primrose Hill, another piece of fantasy London, home to the late Martin Amis and Paddington Bear.…

Mince, glorious mince

16 November 2024 9:00 am

Sometimes, when it comes to culinary history, Britain is its own worst enemy. For a long time, British food has…

You’re spoiling us: The Ambassadors Clubhouse reviewed

2 November 2024 9:00 am

The Ambassadors Clubhouse is on Heddon Street, close to Savile Row and the fictional HQ of Kingsman, which was a…

At Japan House humanity has arrived at the perfect future: food for ogling, not eating

26 October 2024 9:00 am

There is a popular Japanese television show that features a segment called ‘Candy Or Not Candy?’. Contestants are presented with…

The secret to making great oysters Rockefeller

19 October 2024 9:00 am

There’s nothing more intriguing than a closely guarded secret recipe. Coca-Cola and KFC are two famous examples, with the precise…

An inedible catastrophe: Julie’s Restaurant reviewed

5 October 2024 9:00 am

At Julie’s at the fag end of Saturday lunchtime, Notting Hill beauties are defiantly not eating, and the table is…

As good as Noble Rot: Cloth reviewed

21 September 2024 9:00 am

Cloth is opposite St Bartholomew the Great on Cloth Fair. People call this place Farringdon, but it isn’t really: it…

The anxiety-inducing world of wellness tech

14 September 2024 9:00 am

I first came across the Zoe programme when a bright yellow package arrived on my parents’ doorstep last year. My…

Are you a hotel buffet bandit?

14 September 2024 9:00 am

Last week, on a Swedish train somewhere between Linkoping and Mjolby, as I struggled to open a bag of cheesy…

Pity the restaurant critic

7 September 2024 9:00 am

An atom is made of protons, electrons and neutrons, and protons are made of quarks, and a quark is the…

Letters: Lucy Letby and the statistics myth

7 September 2024 9:00 am

Pensioners at risk Sir: Douglas Murray wonders what would have happened if a Conservative chancellor had announced the removal of…

Curiously understated: Porthminster Kitchen reviewed

7 September 2024 9:00 am

Porthminster Kitchen sits above Warren’s Bakery on St Ives Harbour, like a paradigm of the British class system in food.…

A slice of Paris in Crouch End: Bistro Aix reviewed

24 August 2024 9:00 am

There is a wonderful cognitive dissonance to Bistro Aix. It thinks it is in Paris but it is really in…

A French restaurant Glastonbury would be proud to host: Café Lapérouse reviewed

10 August 2024 9:00 am

I am working my way around the restaurants of the Old War Office (OWO), now an acronym and Raffles hotel…

Jeremy King has done it again: The Park, reviewed

27 July 2024 9:00 am

The Park is the new restaurant from Jeremy King, and it sits in a golden building to the north of…

Keep Michelin men out of our hotels!

20 July 2024 9:00 am

It’s probably escaped most people’s attention, what with the football, the election, the Ukraine war, the horrors of Gaza, the…

48 hours of food in Andalusia

13 July 2024 9:00 am

In Spain, you can eat all day – and we did. Earlier in the summer, I spent two days in…

‘An uneasy place’: Chez Roux at The Langham reviewed

29 June 2024 9:00 am

The Langham is a Victorian Gothic hotel opposite the BBC in Portland Place. It’s an odd place: haunted house near…

‘Grand and isolated’: The Wolseley City, reviewed

1 June 2024 9:00 am

I am fretting about this restaurant column’s election coverage and then I alight on something superficially grand and lovely, which…

Admit it – Italian food is rubbish

25 May 2024 9:00 am

Every year I’m summoned to a gathering which I strive to avoid. My first cousin, who loves a boozy party,…