Food

‘Rushed and under-loved and lacking conviction’: Hawksmoor Canary Wharf reviewed

7 June 2025 9:00 am

Hawksmoor is the finest steak chain in London, because it lacks pretension and cares about blood. Years ago, at the…

Should we give weight loss jabs to children?

31 May 2025 9:00 am

I have seen the future of food. And some of you won’t like it. On a research trip to the…

Food that’s both serious and serene: Babbo reviewed

24 May 2025 9:00 am

After a week in which Israel triumphed at the Eurovision Song Contest with second place – western Europe is for…

How do I feed my children now my wife has gone on strike?

24 May 2025 9:00 am

Caroline has gone on strike. At least, as far as cooking is concerned. Her case for downing spatulas is that…

Devilled kidneys: a heavenly breakfast

17 May 2025 9:00 am

Iam standing in my kitchen preparing kidneys for devilling. Snipping their white cores away piece by piece until they come…

Everything Ottolenghi should be but isn’t: Delamina Townhouse reviewed

10 May 2025 9:00 am

Delamina Townhouse is on Tavistock Street in Covent Garden. It is an Israeli restaurant, and a very fine and subtle…

Gene-editing won’t save our fruit

5 May 2025 6:32 pm

The other day, I had a dismaying experience while making my usual frugal lunch. Usually, a cheese sandwich does me.…

The gobsmacking brilliance of baked Alaska

3 May 2025 9:00 am

I have never seen a baked Alaska in the wild. Have you? I knew what they looked like, of course,…

Northern Europe doesn’t get salads: Claro reviewed

26 April 2025 9:00 am

Claro is at 12 Waterloo Place, St James’s, and, when I tried to find out what it used to be…

My Marco Pierre White obsession

26 April 2025 9:00 am

Pierre White, Marco. Chef. Michelin stars: five (all handed back). Wives: three (all handed back). Restaurants owned: number unclear. Hours…

Long live the long lunch!

26 April 2025 9:00 am

I keep on my bedside table, where others might place religious texts, Keith Waterhouse’s seminal The Theory and Practice of…

Letters: Bring back mutton

26 April 2025 9:00 am

Man out of time Sir: That Mary Wakefield left Rowan Williams ‘with my questions for the most part unresolved’ will…

Lamb is for life, not just for Easter

19 April 2025 9:00 am

Roast lamb is as expected on the Easter table as turkey is at Christmas. But as a nation, we are…

The simple elegance of fondant potatoes

19 April 2025 9:00 am

In 1999, a relatively unknown American chef wrote an essay in the New Yorker uncovering the secrets of restaurants. ‘Don’t…

Smart even for Chelsea: Josephine Bouchon reviewed

12 April 2025 9:00 am

Josephine is a Lyonnaise bistro on the Fulham Road from Claude Bosi. It is named for Bosi’s grandmother and is…

Letters: Where to find Britain’s best dripping

5 April 2025 9:00 am

Open arms Sir: The latest magazine (29 March) has two references to American military capabilities, from Rod Liddle and Francis…

A creche for nepo babies: the River Cafe Cafe reviewed

29 March 2025 9:00 am

The River Cafe has grown a thrifty annexe, and this passes for democratisation. All restaurants are tribal: if dukes have…

Sole meunière: simple one-pan sophistication

22 March 2025 9:00 am

Picture the scene. The year is 2004. The setting, a British field or maybe a beach. There is a small…

A great-day-out cafe that’s good value: Kenwood House reviewed

15 March 2025 9:00 am

The immaculate bourgeois socialists of north London – that is not code for Jews – like to eat and drink…

In defence of red velvet cake

8 March 2025 9:00 am

I will admit to having been dismissive of red velvet cake in the past, considering it to be bland in…

Stop scoffing food on trains!

8 March 2025 9:00 am

I’m on the 10.45 slow train to Ipswich. It’s not even lunchtime, yet everyone around me is already gorging on…

The tiramisu is one of the loveliest things I’ve eaten anywhere: La Môme London reviewed

1 March 2025 9:00 am

La Môme is the new ‘Mediterranean’ restaurant at the Berkeley, Knightsbridge’s monumental grand hotel. It has changed, as all London’s…

How to get a table at Audley Public House

15 February 2025 9:00 am

The Audley Public House is on the corner of North Audley Street and Mount Street in Mayfair, opposite the Purdey…

Is a soul the only thing unavailable in Harrods?

1 February 2025 9:00 am

The Harrods bookshop, which I browse for masochistic reasons, is mesmerising: an homage to the lure of ownership. The first…