Food

Repulsive, depraved and oddly political: Monster Munch crisps reviewed

6 June 2020 9:00 am

Now that I have considered Monster Munch I decide to eat one mindfully. I put it in my mouth, and…

The horror of socially distanced restaurants

23 May 2020 9:00 am

What does a critic do when her genre collapses? Mostly I panic. I speak to restaurateurs who believe that without…

Britain’s strange aversion to seafood

23 May 2020 9:00 am

Britain’s strange aversion to seafood

Who can still make a Sunday joint last a week?

16 May 2020 9:00 am

Sunday lunch was always roast beef and, in the traditional way, the Yorkshire pudding was served first with gravy, supposedly…

Hope in a takeaway bag: Mackerel Sky reviewed

9 May 2020 9:00 am

You don’t dine in the age of pandemic: you scuttle about in the wreckage. If you can afford food, and…

Riveting – and disgusting: BFI's 'Dogs v Cats' and 'Eating In' collections reviewed

9 May 2020 9:00 am

This week I’d like to point you in the direction of the British Film Institute and its free online archive…

Fare game: life as The Spectator’s restaurant critic

24 April 2020 11:00 pm

A fictional Spectator restaurant critic called Forbes McAllister appeared on Knowing Me, Knowing You with Alan Partridge. He was played…

Much of it is pointless, but that only adds to its charm: Fortnum & Mason hampers reviewed

11 April 2020 9:00 am

Stop the clocks: Fortnum & Mason is still delivering hampers. I am not surprised, because this shop — or rather…

How much are people eating during lockdown?

4 April 2020 9:00 am

People power Boris Johnson said that the reaction to the coronavirus crisis showed ‘There really is such a thing as…

How much food have we really been stockpiling?

28 March 2020 9:00 am

Time out When did British workers start being ‘furloughed’? The word furlough is first recorded in the English language in…

Dining in the time of pandemic: takeaways reviewed

28 March 2020 9:00 am

I love eating while watching bad films like Battleship, so I love takeaway food from local restaurants. I am not…

A tax on intellectuals: Terrace Cafe at the British Library reviewed

14 March 2020 9:00 am

The British Library is the national library of the United Kingdom, and it sits like a red-brick crab on the…

I have always liked angry food: Ugly Butterfly reviewed

29 February 2020 9:00 am

Ugly Butterfly is a zero-waste restaurant and champagne bar on the King’s Road, Chelsea. The ‘champagne bar’ addition is so…

Pangolins are being blamed for coronavirus – and I’m sorry for eating one

15 February 2020 9:00 am

Is the pangolin having its revenge?

Criminally good food: The Yard at Great Scotland Yard reviewed

15 February 2020 9:00 am

The Yard is a defiantly themed restaurant in Hyatt’s new Great Scotland Yard Hotel, an Edwardian red-brick block which once…

Is gluttony no longer a sin?

7 February 2020 10:00 pm

I’ve no interest in food. None. But for the three other journalists on our press trip, eating was a consuming…

The food is almost too superb: Wild Honey reviewed

1 February 2020 9:00 am

Wild Honey is a ludicrous name for this restaurant: there is nothing wild about it, and I do not think…

Fairy food for fairy wives: Julie’s Restaurant reviewed

18 January 2020 9:00 am

Julie’s is a 50-year-old restaurant in Holland Park, London, newly emerged from three years of closure as plushly renovated as…

Eggs and hard liquor: Spectator writers on their favourite examples of meals in literature

21 December 2019 9:00 am

P.J. O’Rourke I love poems but hate poetasters, love wine but detest oenophiles, love food but can’t stand foodies. Therefore…

‘Cook it like a prayer’: Bip Ling’s Christmas curry

21 December 2019 9:00 am

This dish is refreshing and super yummy. It’s a recipe that Didas (my Indian grandmother) taught me. The zesty tomato…

This food needs a little less grandeur, and a little more love: Simpson’s in the Strand reviewed

21 December 2019 9:00 am

Simpson’s in the Strand stopped serving breakfast in 2017, after it had been renovated to stop it smelling of cabbage.…

Sumptuous, remote – and forgettable: Locket’s reviewed

14 December 2019 9:00 am

Locket’s is a new café from the owners of Wiltons in Jermyn Street. Wiltons is the restaurant that dukes visit…

Remarkable and imaginative: Fitzwilliam Museum’s The Art of Food reviewed

30 November 2019 9:00 am

Eating makes us anxious. This is a feature of contemporary life: a huge amount of attention is devoted to how…

Nauseating, but I like the garlic bread: Legoland Windsor reviewed

30 November 2019 9:00 am

The theme music to Legoland in Berkshire is the theme music to The Exorcist. It appears from speakers hidden in…

Back in the Babington Triangle: Roth Bar & Grill reviewed

16 November 2019 9:00 am

The Roth Bar & Grill exists on an art-farm called Durslade in Bruton, Somerset, which is also the country outpost…