Food

‘Grand and isolated’: The Wolseley City, reviewed

1 June 2024 9:00 am

I am fretting about this restaurant column’s election coverage and then I alight on something superficially grand and lovely, which…

Admit it – Italian food is rubbish

25 May 2024 9:00 am

Every year I’m summoned to a gathering which I strive to avoid. My first cousin, who loves a boozy party,…

Are ultra-processed foods really so bad?

25 May 2024 9:00 am

Last week saw a flurry of media reports, of whose headlines one of the worst preceded one of the best…

‘Great restaurants can’t thrive in Hampstead’: Ottolenghi reviewed

18 May 2024 9:00 am

Ottolenghi is an Israeli deli co-owned by Yotam Ottolenghi, an Israeli Jew, and Sami Tamimi, a Palestinian Muslim. They met…

‘Five stars, no notes’: Arlington reviewed

20 April 2024 9:00 am

Arlington is named for the 1st Earl of Arlington and his street behind the Ritz Hotel. It used to be…

‘Can’t help but exude warmth’: Paper Moon at the OWO, reviewed

6 April 2024 9:00 am

Paper Moon is the Italian restaurant inside the Old War Office on Whitehall, now a hotel called Raffles London at…

Stop worrying if your child is a picky eater

6 April 2024 9:00 am

One parent in our class WhatsApp chat raised a pressing concern: her daughter was coming home every day with a…

‘The food is as good as you will find in London’: Saison at Raffles London, reviewed

11 November 2023 9:00 am

The Old War Office (bad acronym OWO) on Whitehall is now a Raffles hotel: you can stay in Winston Churchill’s…

‘They do better spaghetti bolognese in Hampstead for a tenner’: The Lobby at The Peninsula, reviewed

28 October 2023 9:00 am

The Peninsula is a new hotel at Hyde Park Corner. It is part of the trend for absurd expense: rooms…

‘Well-priced and skilful’: Masala Zone, reviewed

14 October 2023 9:00 am

There are cursed restaurants and cursed women, and this makes them no less interesting. One is Maxim’s in Paris, which…

Stark realities

7 October 2023 9:00 am

Lawyers, teachers, architects and engineers all enjoy sex behind the scenes at a Houston gay bar in a novel focusing on relationships among black urban men

Fine food in a fine restaurant: Origin City reviewed

30 September 2023 9:00 am

Origin City is a good name for this restaurant, whether it knows it or not. It is at West Smithfield,…

As gaudy as Versailles: The Duchess of Cornwall in Poundbury reviewed

16 September 2023 9:00 am

Poundbury is the King’s idealised town in Dorchester, built on his land to his specifications: the town that sprung out…

Why I’m addicted to Australian MasterChef

16 September 2023 9:00 am

Why is Australian MasterChef so much better than the English version? You’d think, with a population less than a third…

Bruton is suddenly the place to be – and I have a theory why: At the Chapel reviewed

2 September 2023 9:00 am

At the Chapel, Bruton, is a restaurant and hotel in a former chapel in Bruton. This was once an ordinary…