Food

Cornwall, but not as the locals know it: Stein’s at Home reviewed

6 March 2021 9:00 am

The Stein’s at Home steak menu box (£65) says ‘Love from Cornwall’: it is not for people who live in…

The real reasons children are going hungry

6 March 2021 9:00 am

‘We’re idiots, babe, it’s a wonder we can even feed ourselves.’ I listened to The Food Programme on Radio 4…

Feasting on memories of Venice

20 February 2021 9:00 am

Dining in catastrophe used to be more interesting: but we must be fair. It was a smaller (and wetter) catastrophe:…

Dull food for dull times: the Morrisons family food box reviewed

6 February 2021 9:00 am

The Compass Group boast of serving 5.5 billion meals a year, so you might think they would be good at…

In praise of the bacon butty

6 February 2021 9:00 am

I was tipped off to meet a white Hyundai at a French motorway toll rest area at 2.30 p.m. (I…

Piccadilly Circus, delivered: the Wolseley’s home dining reviewed

23 January 2021 9:00 am

The Corbin & King dining and home entertaining box includes dishes from the Delaunay, the Wolseley and Brasserie Zédel ‘delivered…

Meal kits are a recipe for mayhem

16 January 2021 9:00 am

Caroline was pretty heroic during the first lockdown. She’s used to having no children to deal with between the hours…

The ethics of eating octopus

16 January 2021 9:00 am

The questionable ethics of eating octopus

Sub-ready-meals of salt and tears: Simply Cook reviewed

9 January 2021 9:00 am

Welcome to the sunlit uplands which, for me, contain small plastic tubs of stock, which is just the opening to…

Why oranges don’t have ‘segments’

9 January 2021 9:00 am

In the aisle of Tesco I stood like one thunderstruck. It was not the print of a man’s naked foot…

Theresa May’s recipe for Christmas cake

19 December 2020 9:00 am

This recipe was given to me years ago by an old friend — hence the imperial measurements — and I…

Food to absorb alcohol: Christmas hampers reviewed

19 December 2020 9:00 am

There is straw inside the Fortnum & Mason Christmas Treat Hamper (£100). As the straw drifts through the house, it…

A magical field hospital for vegetables: Turnips reviewed

5 December 2020 9:00 am

Turnips is an haute cuisine restaurant inside a greengrocer in Borough Market in London. I suspect others will try this…

The surprising brilliance of meal kits

28 November 2020 9:00 am

Ford’s Kumar Galhotra once remarked that carmaking is 100,000 rational decisions in search of one emotional decision. You spend five…

Me, myself and Thai: my cooking lesson from Cher Thai Eatery

21 November 2020 9:00 am

Lockdown is hurting everyone except the chickens. I have bought them a conservatory because Philippa, a Light Sussex, looks like…

Winning a knife fight with a fish: Newlyn Fresh Fish reviewed

7 November 2020 9:00 am

It’s a good day to stab something and tear out its heart. Elaine Lorys is the only female master fishmonger…

The best food Italy can offer: Giannino Mayfair reviewed

10 October 2020 9:00 am

Pity the gilded restaurants of Mayfair, if you can: they are dying. Some have reopened; they ache on like men…

Petronella Wyatt: My food fights with Boris

3 October 2020 9:00 am

I have been in Istanbul, partly to research a French-born collateral ancestor of mine, Aimée Dubucq, who, according to legend,…

Social distancing in Soho: The French House reviewed

26 September 2020 9:00 am

London is gasping — so where to go but Soho, which is so good at despair? It is often necrotic…

The apex of civilisation: the Connaught Grill reviewed

12 September 2020 9:00 am

A ghost review, now, of a ghost restaurant: the Connaught Grill, which is yet to reopen after pandemic shuttered its…

A perfect luncheon wine

5 September 2020 9:00 am

I suspect, though this may be romanticising, that if a French lorry driver with hitherto suppressed culinary tastes won France’s…

My steak cooking lesson turned into a sitcom

29 August 2020 9:00 am

Pandemic has brought many truths, the most minor of which is: I can’t cook steak. I thought I could. I…

Covid has exposed our confusion about food

29 August 2020 9:00 am

Covid has exposed our muddled thinking about food

The joy of pickling

15 August 2020 9:00 am

We have beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes, butternut squash, plums and strawberries growing in our garden. I dug up and replanted…

A great Dane: Snaps + Rye reviewed

15 August 2020 9:00 am

Snaps + Rye is a Nordic-themed restaurant and delicatessen on the Golborne Road, at the shabby and thrilling edges of…