Food

Who survived the sinking of the Titanic?

29 January 2022 9:00 am

Prime numbers As of 29 January Boris Johnson will have been Prime Minister for two years and 190 days. Currently…

A ghost at the feast: The LaLee at the Cadogan hotel, reviewed

29 January 2022 9:00 am

The Cadogan hotel, Chelsea, is where Oscar Wilde was arrested for sodomy and gross indecency in 1895, in Room 118,…

The best schnitzel in London: Schnitzel Forever reviewed

15 January 2022 9:00 am

It is a truism that there is never enough schnitzel (‘slice’, German); or, rather, schnitzel does not get the attention…

The torment of a tasting menu: Hélène Darroze at the Connaught reviewed

18 December 2021 9:00 am

The Connaught Hotel’s formal dining room was always, to me, a place of childish myth; more comforting for being mythical.…

Gastro-nomics: a foodie’s guide to a changing world

18 December 2021 9:00 am

Twice recently I’ve been asked my opinion of ‘Doughnut Economics’. The first time, I was tempted to cover my ignorance…

Just another mad night out at the local bad-food gastropub

13 November 2021 9:00 am

We were enjoying our evening at the overpriced gastropub until a woman in a dark uniform appeared at our table.…

Dregs of fake Provence: Whitcomb’s reviewed

30 October 2021 9:00 am

Whitcomb’s is in The Londoner hotel on the south-west corner of Leicester Square. The Londoner calls itself ‘the world’s first…

Would you go to a naked dining club?

23 October 2021 9:00 am

My evening at a naked dining club

Letters: How to feed the world

23 October 2021 9:00 am

Doom and gloom Sir: The depressing article by Tom Woodman (‘You must be kidding’, 16 October) confirms my growing fears…

Why I retrained as a butcher

9 October 2021 9:00 am

Why I retrained as a butcher

The real Greek: Lemonia reviewed

2 October 2021 9:00 am

Lemonia lives in the old Chalk Farm Tavern in Primrose Hill, which is better known as the set of Paddington.…

What does Peter Quennell have to do with fish?

11 September 2021 9:00 am

When Peter Quennell was sent down from Oxford for consorting with a woman called Cara (by Evelyn Waugh’s account), he…

Scarface’s lair with nibbles: Louie reviewed

4 September 2021 9:00 am

A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter,…

In defence of cruel foods

30 August 2021 5:53 am

Fishmongers are an endangered species in London. Thankfully, 15 minutes walk across Westminster from The Spectator’s offices there is an…

Must all history programming be 'relevant'?

28 August 2021 9:00 am

When it comes to history programming, television’s loss is increasingly audio’s gain. People moan to me most weeks over the…

An intensely quiet and soulful performance from Nicolas Cage: Pig reviewed

21 August 2021 9:00 am

What use does a fallen and corrupted world have for a man of integrity? This was not the question I…

Who’d want to move to America now?

14 August 2021 9:00 am

Why would anyone move to the US?

Curry isn't racist

12 August 2021 3:30 pm

The latest casualty in the culture wars is an innocent-sounding word: ‘curry’. Apparently it’s inappropriate to use it, and incorrect…

Have my suits shrunk in lockdown?

7 August 2021 9:00 am

I hadn’t noticed how much weight I’d put on during lockdown until I went out for a business lunch a…

High on the hog: The Pig at Bridge Place reviewed

7 August 2021 9:00 am

The Pig at Bridge Place is not a pig in possession of a country house, but I would be for…

Letters: In defence of organic food

31 July 2021 9:00 am

A note about manure Sir: I am afraid Matt Ridley shows a lack of understanding about agriculture in general and…

A Damascene moment in London: Imad’s Syrian Kitchen reviewed

24 July 2021 9:00 am

Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is an eyrie off Carnaby Street, a once-famous road which seems to exist nowadays to sell trainers…

Organic food isn’t better for us – or the environment

24 July 2021 9:00 am

The case against organic food

A salt and sugar tax doesn’t make much sense

17 July 2021 8:41 am

What is the point of the National Food Strategy? When Henry Dimbleby was hired as Britain’s ‘food tsar’ several years…

An utterly convincing dreamworld: The Ritz reviewed

10 July 2021 9:00 am

The Ritz is still here, and still gaudy. No grand hotel in London feels quite so complete, if pink; as…