Restaurants

The extinction of the arts has been deferred – for now

11 July 2020 9:00 am

The government’s £1.57 billion lifeline for the cultural sector was bigger than most practitioners were expecting — and drew a…

More drug than nutrient: KFC drive-through reviewed

20 June 2020 9:00 am

Drive-through restaurants were invented so Americans could spend more time in their cars. I don’t blame them. American cars are…

Letters: Why we need music festivals

30 May 2020 9:00 am

Disastrous decisions Sir: One cannot but agree wholeheartedly with Lionel Shriver (‘This is not a natural disaster’, 16 May). Given…

The horror of socially distanced restaurants

23 May 2020 9:00 am

What does a critic do when her genre collapses? Mostly I panic. I speak to restaurateurs who believe that without…

Dear Mary: How can I stop other diners eating my chips?

18 January 2020 9:00 am

Q. My husband and I are committed Brexiteers. For many years we have regularly enjoyed friendly bridge evenings with a…

Fairy food for fairy wives: Julie’s Restaurant reviewed

18 January 2020 9:00 am

Julie’s is a 50-year-old restaurant in Holland Park, London, newly emerged from three years of closure as plushly renovated as…

This food needs a little less grandeur, and a little more love: Simpson’s in the Strand reviewed

21 December 2019 9:00 am

Simpson’s in the Strand stopped serving breakfast in 2017, after it had been renovated to stop it smelling of cabbage.…

Plumbers always have the best restaurant recommendations

26 October 2019 9:00 am

Whenever I use the security lane at an airport, I enjoy watching people retrieving their bags and metallic items when…

At least Thomas Cook’s fall allows ministers to look in control

28 September 2019 9:00 am

It’s not obvious that the state has a moral obligation to repatriate holidaymakers whenever a tour operator goes bust, as…

It’s so easy to go mad in Oxford: Chiang Mai Kitchen reviewed

21 September 2019 9:00 am

Oxford is a pile of medieval buildings filled with maniacs, and is therefore one of the most interesting places on…

Dear Mary: What do you do when your hostess licks your spoon?

31 August 2019 9:00 am

Q. I have happily overcome many moments of diplomatic and social challenge, but was stumped by the case of the…

Dear Mary: How should one react when someone invites you to an expensive restaurant — then lets you pay the bill?

20 July 2019 9:00 am

Q. Further to your advice about how to refuse invitations, I had a friend, who sadly died young, who disliked…

The devil eats Prada: Patisserie Marchesi 1824 reviewed

13 July 2019 9:00 am

The Prada Café is both a cake shop and a historical inevitability. It sits on Mount Street, almost opposite the…

I didn’t know kosher food this good existed: Decks in Tverya reviewed

29 June 2019 9:00 am

Decks is a restaurant built on the Sea of Galilee. It is Benjamin and Sara Netanyahu’s favourite restaurant (it is…

Soho hasn’t deteriorated – you have: Kiln reviewed

4 May 2019 9:00 am

Each suburban soul yearns for the Soho of their youth. It isn’t that Soho was better in the 1990s when…

(istockphoto.com)

Germany’s economy is crashing – but its fall may help save us

13 April 2019 9:00 am

This is no time for schadenfreude — but take comfort from the fact that the UK isn’t built like Germany.…

(Ambroise Tézenas)

Pale pomp and £100 Beijing duck: Imperial Treasure reviewed

9 March 2019 9:00 am

Imperial Treasure is a restaurant in the part of St James’s where Leopold von Hoesch, the German ambassador to George…

Credit: Jake Eastham

A temple to small food in a room for rich people: the Ledbury in Notting Hill reviewed

23 February 2019 9:00 am

A serious restaurant for serious times: the Ledbury in Notting Hill. It’s a good time to do it, as the…

This is a restaurant for affluent halfwits: Bob Bob Ricard reviewed

12 January 2019 9:00 am

In January, you could go to Bob Bob Ricard in Soho. I do not know why it is called Bob…

Fortnum and Mason

This is capitalism as its most gaudy: Fortnum & Mason reviewed

15 December 2018 9:00 am

I admit I had a falling out with Fortnum & Mason a few years ago over its new brasserie on…

A cruise-ship menu inside a giant Venetian cake: Caffè Concerto reviewed

1 December 2018 9:00 am

Caffè Concerto is a chain of Italian cafés sprouting, lividly, across London and the world. There is one on Piccadilly,…

It’s a Jewish homage to the Wolseley, and that is no bad thing: Tish reviewed

17 November 2018 9:00 am

Tish is a new grand café in Belsize Park, north London, but kosher. There are not really enough Jews to…

It is essentially a crap Le Gavroche, and that is not an insult: Roux at Parliament Square reviewed

22 September 2018 9:00 am

Politicians are having a terrible time of late, along with the rest of us — it’s not much fun watching…

I am served up a crime against breakfast: Sketch reviewed

8 September 2018 9:00 am

Sketch is a restaurant and art gallery in Conduit Street, Mayfair. There is a photograph of the Queen in the…

Temper, a new pizza restaurant in Covent Garden, land of the itinerant rich

11 August 2018 9:00 am

Temper is a new pizza restaurant in Mercers Walk, Covent Garden, and it is as glib and polished as you…