Restaurants

Social distancing in Soho: The French House reviewed

26 September 2020 9:00 am

London is gasping — so where to go but Soho, which is so good at despair? It is often necrotic…

Dear Mary: how can I avoid my friend’s awful favourite restaurant?

19 September 2020 9:00 am

Q. Almost a year ago I attended the funeral of my godfather — a bachelor and distant relation whom I…

The apex of civilisation: the Connaught Grill reviewed

12 September 2020 9:00 am

A ghost review, now, of a ghost restaurant: the Connaught Grill, which is yet to reopen after pandemic shuttered its…

My steak cooking lesson turned into a sitcom

29 August 2020 9:00 am

Pandemic has brought many truths, the most minor of which is: I can’t cook steak. I thought I could. I…

A great Dane: Snaps + Rye reviewed

15 August 2020 9:00 am

Snaps + Rye is a Nordic-themed restaurant and delicatessen on the Golborne Road, at the shabby and thrilling edges of…

In defence of Amazon

8 August 2020 9:00 am

We should take heart from BP’s £5.1 billion second-quarter loss, accompanied by a halving of its dividend. What’s good about…

How busy have restaurants been this summer?

8 August 2020 9:00 am

The other Argos The Argos catalogue, known as the ‘Book of Dreams’, is no longer to appear in printed form.…

Stringfellows with fish instead of women: Sexy Fish reviewed

1 August 2020 9:00 am

Sexy Fish is an Asian fusion barn in Berkeley Square, near the car dealerships and the nightingales, if they are…

Returning to what makes us happy: Brasserie Zedel reviewed

18 July 2020 9:00 am

Brasserie Zédel is a grand salon under Piccadilly Circus and the only place I desired when lockdown (or lock-in) ceased…

The extinction of the arts has been deferred – for now

11 July 2020 9:00 am

The government’s £1.57 billion lifeline for the cultural sector was bigger than most practitioners were expecting — and drew a…

More drug than nutrient: KFC drive-through reviewed

20 June 2020 9:00 am

Drive-through restaurants were invented so Americans could spend more time in their cars. I don’t blame them. American cars are…

Letters: Why we need music festivals

30 May 2020 9:00 am

Disastrous decisions Sir: One cannot but agree wholeheartedly with Lionel Shriver (‘This is not a natural disaster’, 16 May). Given…

The horror of socially distanced restaurants

23 May 2020 9:00 am

What does a critic do when her genre collapses? Mostly I panic. I speak to restaurateurs who believe that without…

Dear Mary: How can I stop other diners eating my chips?

18 January 2020 9:00 am

Q. My husband and I are committed Brexiteers. For many years we have regularly enjoyed friendly bridge evenings with a…

Fairy food for fairy wives: Julie’s Restaurant reviewed

18 January 2020 9:00 am

Julie’s is a 50-year-old restaurant in Holland Park, London, newly emerged from three years of closure as plushly renovated as…

This food needs a little less grandeur, and a little more love: Simpson’s in the Strand reviewed

21 December 2019 9:00 am

Simpson’s in the Strand stopped serving breakfast in 2017, after it had been renovated to stop it smelling of cabbage.…

Plumbers always have the best restaurant recommendations

26 October 2019 9:00 am

Whenever I use the security lane at an airport, I enjoy watching people retrieving their bags and metallic items when…

At least Thomas Cook’s fall allows ministers to look in control

28 September 2019 9:00 am

It’s not obvious that the state has a moral obligation to repatriate holidaymakers whenever a tour operator goes bust, as…

It’s so easy to go mad in Oxford: Chiang Mai Kitchen reviewed

21 September 2019 9:00 am

Oxford is a pile of medieval buildings filled with maniacs, and is therefore one of the most interesting places on…

Dear Mary: What do you do when your hostess licks your spoon?

31 August 2019 9:00 am

Q. I have happily overcome many moments of diplomatic and social challenge, but was stumped by the case of the…

Dear Mary: How should one react when someone invites you to an expensive restaurant — then lets you pay the bill?

20 July 2019 9:00 am

Q. Further to your advice about how to refuse invitations, I had a friend, who sadly died young, who disliked…

The devil eats Prada: Patisserie Marchesi 1824 reviewed

13 July 2019 9:00 am

The Prada Café is both a cake shop and a historical inevitability. It sits on Mount Street, almost opposite the…

I didn’t know kosher food this good existed: Decks in Tverya reviewed

29 June 2019 9:00 am

Decks is a restaurant built on the Sea of Galilee. It is Benjamin and Sara Netanyahu’s favourite restaurant (it is…

Soho hasn’t deteriorated – you have: Kiln reviewed

4 May 2019 9:00 am

Each suburban soul yearns for the Soho of their youth. It isn’t that Soho was better in the 1990s when…

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Germany’s economy is crashing – but its fall may help save us

13 April 2019 9:00 am

This is no time for schadenfreude — but take comfort from the fact that the UK isn’t built like Germany.…