Restaurants

Soho hasn’t deteriorated – you have: Kiln reviewed

4 May 2019 9:00 am

Each suburban soul yearns for the Soho of their youth. It isn’t that Soho was better in the 1990s when…

(istockphoto.com)

Germany’s economy is crashing – but its fall may help save us

13 April 2019 9:00 am

This is no time for schadenfreude — but take comfort from the fact that the UK isn’t built like Germany.…

(Ambroise Tézenas)

Pale pomp and £100 Beijing duck: Imperial Treasure reviewed

9 March 2019 9:00 am

Imperial Treasure is a restaurant in the part of St James’s where Leopold von Hoesch, the German ambassador to George…

Credit: Jake Eastham

A temple to small food in a room for rich people: the Ledbury in Notting Hill reviewed

23 February 2019 9:00 am

A serious restaurant for serious times: the Ledbury in Notting Hill. It’s a good time to do it, as the…

This is a restaurant for affluent halfwits: Bob Bob Ricard reviewed

12 January 2019 9:00 am

In January, you could go to Bob Bob Ricard in Soho. I do not know why it is called Bob…

Fortnum and Mason

This is capitalism as its most gaudy: Fortnum & Mason reviewed

15 December 2018 9:00 am

I admit I had a falling out with Fortnum & Mason a few years ago over its new brasserie on…

A cruise-ship menu inside a giant Venetian cake: Caffè Concerto reviewed

1 December 2018 9:00 am

Caffè Concerto is a chain of Italian cafés sprouting, lividly, across London and the world. There is one on Piccadilly,…

It’s a Jewish homage to the Wolseley, and that is no bad thing: Tish reviewed

17 November 2018 9:00 am

Tish is a new grand café in Belsize Park, north London, but kosher. There are not really enough Jews to…

It is essentially a crap Le Gavroche, and that is not an insult: Roux at Parliament Square reviewed

22 September 2018 9:00 am

Politicians are having a terrible time of late, along with the rest of us — it’s not much fun watching…

I am served up a crime against breakfast: Sketch reviewed

8 September 2018 9:00 am

Sketch is a restaurant and art gallery in Conduit Street, Mayfair. There is a photograph of the Queen in the…

Temper, a new pizza restaurant in Covent Garden, land of the itinerant rich

11 August 2018 9:00 am

Temper is a new pizza restaurant in Mercers Walk, Covent Garden, and it is as glib and polished as you…

Wedge salad in the shadow of the Tudors: Sargeant’s Mess reviewed

30 June 2018 9:00 am

Sargeant’s Mess (2018) is a tourist catcher’s net in restaurant form by the Tower of London (c. 1078). It has views…

Food that’s prettier than you are: The Petersham reviewed

2 June 2018 9:00 am

The Petersham is a fading hotel on Richmond Hill. I went to a bar mitzvah there in 1986, which gives…

Dear Mary: As best man, can I seduce the groom’s sister?

26 May 2018 9:00 am

Q. We often take friends to what my husband calls a ‘poncey’ pub which has won numerous awards and where…

Too good for the kleptocrats of Knightsbridge: Harry’s Dolce Vita reviewed

24 March 2018 9:00 am

In 2007 Mikhael Gorbachev starred in a Louis Vuitton advert. He was driven past the Berlin Wall with Louis Vuitton…

As restaurants go, it’s important – and it knows it: the River Café reviewed

10 March 2018 9:00 am

Jilly Cooper’s fictional hero Rupert Campbell-Black has ‘never been to Hammersmith’. I have but I wish I hadn’t. I love…

A new addition to north London’s underwhelming restaurants: Café Hampstead reviewed

10 February 2018 9:00 am

Café Hampstead is a new café in — big reveal! — Hampstead, the gaudiest of the old villages on the…

It’s survived universal suffrage and two world wars: restaurant Rules reviewed

16 December 2017 9:00 am

Rules looks as if it voted for Brexit, and now finds itself inside an eternal Christmas Eve, where it is…

Farmacy’s food is the worst I have eaten in London

25 November 2017 9:00 am

Farmacy, which opened last year, is London’s most fashionable ‘clean eating’ restaurant; it is, therefore, a restaurant for people who…

The queen of hotels

28 October 2017 9:00 am

Jean-Georges at the Connaught — formerly the Prince of Saxe-Coburg Hotel, but it was renamed during the first world war,…

Elle Decoration meets pub food

14 October 2017 9:00 am

The Mandrake is a new ‘design hotel’ in London, which means it is for people who treat Elle Decoration magazine…

In silent misremembrance

14 September 2017 1:00 pm

Foxlow is near Golden Square in west Soho, where drunken hacks used to take long drunken lunches before having stupid…

Tapas but no phantom

19 August 2017 9:00 am

I am always surprised to remember that Andrew Lloyd Webber has taste; it must be remembrance of Cats. I was…

Dear Mary: What can you do when your new neighbours stiff you on a restaurant bill?

4 June 2016 9:00 am

Q. We moved recently and new neighbours invited us to join them for dinner at a nearby restaurant. I planned…

The RA’s new restaurant prioritises its art over its customers

28 May 2016 9:00 am

The Keeper’s House sits in the basement of Burlington House, a restaurant in disguise. It is quite different from the…