Restaurants

Dregs of fake Provence: Whitcomb’s reviewed

30 October 2021 9:00 am

Whitcomb’s is in The Londoner hotel on the south-west corner of Leicester Square. The Londoner calls itself ‘the world’s first…

Has Covid killed criticism?

9 October 2021 9:00 am

A world without criticism is just advertising

Scarface’s lair with nibbles: Louie reviewed

4 September 2021 9:00 am

A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter,…

Is it time for a Dad’s Army of lorry drivers?

7 August 2021 9:00 am

Here’s a patriotic proposal: let’s form a Dad’s Army of lorry drivers, of which the Road Haulage Association reckons there’s…

A Damascene moment in London: Imad’s Syrian Kitchen reviewed

24 July 2021 9:00 am

Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is an eyrie off Carnaby Street, a once-famous road which seems to exist nowadays to sell trainers…

Cake expectations: afternoon tea has gone OTT

3 July 2021 9:00 am

Afternoon tea has gone OTT

How many people are self-isolating when they’re told to?

3 July 2021 9:00 am

Isolated cases Large numbers of people are still being ordered to self-isolate in spite of having been vaccinated — 137,560…

Bad food is back: The Roof Garden at Pantechnicon reviewed

29 May 2021 9:00 am

The Roof Garden is a pale, Nordic-style restaurant at the top of the glorious Pantechnicon in Belgravia — formerly a…

Pretty food with a side order of pollution: 28-50 reviewed

15 May 2021 9:00 am

You cannot have cars and dining tables in the same dreamscape: it doesn’t work, unless you think carbon monoxide is…

Pleasing perversity: St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys reviewed

1 May 2021 9:00 am

The St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys is as expansive as its name, but ghostly. It is an…

Back to the future: Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill reviewed

17 April 2021 9:00 am

The west end of London is still pale and necrotic, but there are points of light. Hatchards the bookseller is…

After London lockdown, LA is like Disneyland

10 April 2021 9:00 am

When I arrived a month ago, one wouldn’t believe LA was suffering a major pandemic. The roads were still busy…

The finest humous in England: Arabica food boxes reviewed

20 March 2021 9:00 am

Restaurant-goers who cannot let go of restaurants — for professional or other reasons — are floating on a sea of…

The car industry is accelerating towards an electric future

27 February 2021 9:00 am

Back in November, when Downing Street’s pandemic responses looked daily more incompetent, the announcement of a ban on sales of…

Piccadilly Circus, delivered: the Wolseley’s home dining reviewed

23 January 2021 9:00 am

The Corbin & King dining and home entertaining box includes dishes from the Delaunay, the Wolseley and Brasserie Zédel ‘delivered…

A magical field hospital for vegetables: Turnips reviewed

5 December 2020 9:00 am

Turnips is an haute cuisine restaurant inside a greengrocer in Borough Market in London. I suspect others will try this…

This replica is better than the original: The Ivy Oxford Brasserie reviewed

24 October 2020 9:00 am

Oxford is not an easy city to homogenise; but that doesn’t mean you can’t try. I found a vast shopping…

The best food Italy can offer: Giannino Mayfair reviewed

10 October 2020 9:00 am

Pity the gilded restaurants of Mayfair, if you can: they are dying. Some have reopened; they ache on like men…

Could ‘clean tech’ save the aviation industry?

3 October 2020 9:00 am

What advice can I offer Alok Sharma, who took a pasting in the weekend press for his lacklustre performance as…

The rise of blocked-off design

3 October 2020 9:00 am

Plexiglass bubbles hover over diners’ heads in restaurants. Plastic pods, spaced six feet apart, separate weightlifters in gyms. Partitions of…

Social distancing in Soho: The French House reviewed

26 September 2020 9:00 am

London is gasping — so where to go but Soho, which is so good at despair? It is often necrotic…

Dear Mary: how can I avoid my friend’s awful favourite restaurant?

19 September 2020 9:00 am

Q. Almost a year ago I attended the funeral of my godfather — a bachelor and distant relation whom I…

The apex of civilisation: the Connaught Grill reviewed

12 September 2020 9:00 am

A ghost review, now, of a ghost restaurant: the Connaught Grill, which is yet to reopen after pandemic shuttered its…

My steak cooking lesson turned into a sitcom

29 August 2020 9:00 am

Pandemic has brought many truths, the most minor of which is: I can’t cook steak. I thought I could. I…

A great Dane: Snaps + Rye reviewed

15 August 2020 9:00 am

Snaps + Rye is a Nordic-themed restaurant and delicatessen on the Golborne Road, at the shabby and thrilling edges of…