Tanya Gold

‘This is as good as food gets in London’ – Town, in Drury Lane, reviewed

5 July 2025 9:00 am

Town – well-named, it has vitality – is on the ragged part of Drury Lane WC2 near the Majestic Wine…

A man’s restaurant: Victor Garvey at the Midland Grand reviewed

21 June 2025 9:00 am

The Midland Grand Hotel at St Pancras Station is George Gilbert Scott’s masterpiece: his Albert Memorial in Hyde Park (a…

The truth about Sydney Sweeney’s bathwater

7 June 2025 9:00 am

In the 2004 film Mean Girls Ms Norbury (Tina Fey) cries to her High School students: ‘Girls! You’ve got to…

‘Rushed and under-loved and lacking conviction’: Hawksmoor Canary Wharf reviewed

7 June 2025 9:00 am

Hawksmoor is the finest steak chain in London, because it lacks pretension and cares about blood. Years ago, at the…

Food that’s both serious and serene: Babbo reviewed

24 May 2025 9:00 am

After a week in which Israel triumphed at the Eurovision Song Contest with second place – western Europe is for…

Everything Ottolenghi should be but isn’t: Delamina Townhouse reviewed

10 May 2025 9:00 am

Delamina Townhouse is on Tavistock Street in Covent Garden. It is an Israeli restaurant, and a very fine and subtle…

Northern Europe doesn’t get salads: Claro reviewed

26 April 2025 9:00 am

Claro is at 12 Waterloo Place, St James’s, and, when I tried to find out what it used to be…

Smart even for Chelsea: Josephine Bouchon reviewed

12 April 2025 9:00 am

Josephine is a Lyonnaise bistro on the Fulham Road from Claude Bosi. It is named for Bosi’s grandmother and is…

A creche for nepo babies: the River Cafe Cafe reviewed

29 March 2025 9:00 am

The River Cafe has grown a thrifty annexe, and this passes for democratisation. All restaurants are tribal: if dukes have…

A great-day-out cafe that’s good value: Kenwood House reviewed

15 March 2025 9:00 am

The immaculate bourgeois socialists of north London – that is not code for Jews – like to eat and drink…

The tiramisu is one of the loveliest things I’ve eaten anywhere: La Môme London reviewed

1 March 2025 9:00 am

La Môme is the new ‘Mediterranean’ restaurant at the Berkeley, Knightsbridge’s monumental grand hotel. It has changed, as all London’s…

My strange day with the Palestine Solidarity Campaign

26 February 2025 5:29 pm

The day after the bodies of Ariel and Kfir Bibas were returned to Israel, the Palestine Solidarity Campaign (PSC) holds…

How to get a table at Audley Public House

15 February 2025 9:00 am

The Audley Public House is on the corner of North Audley Street and Mount Street in Mayfair, opposite the Purdey…

Is a soul the only thing unavailable in Harrods?

1 February 2025 9:00 am

The Harrods bookshop, which I browse for masochistic reasons, is mesmerising: an homage to the lure of ownership. The first…

Jew and non-Jew: Unity Mitford and aristocratic anti-Semitism

1 February 2025 9:00 am

I was touched but not surprised that, despite his illness, the King attended the 80th anniversary of the ‘liberation’ of…

Cornwall’s gypsies face eviction

25 January 2025 9:00 am

‘Don’t use our real names,’ says the teenage gypsy. ‘Other gypsies will laugh at us.’ Even in a tracksuit, the…

Dictator dining

18 January 2025 9:00 am

The Savoy Hotel is a theatre playing Mean Girls with a hotel attached to it, so you can expect it…

Not worth its salt: Wingmans reviewed

4 January 2025 9:00 am

I see this column as an essay on cultural polarisation: artisanal butter can only take you so far into wisdom.…

A world without Jewish artists is a wasteland

14 December 2024 9:00 am

It’s Christmas, and the far left have a gift for us in their stocking: a cultural boycott of Jews. They…

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre contains terrible art – but is filled with magic

14 December 2024 9:00 am

For a press tour of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem – the Church of the Resurrection, the…

Something out of a Spectator reader’s dreams: The Guinea Grill reviewed

14 December 2024 9:00 am

Back to the past: it’s safer there. There is a themed restaurant dedicated to George VI of all people, near…

Ideal for winter: The Dover reviewed

30 November 2024 9:00 am

For British people, America is an idea brought by cinema, and The Dover, the New York Italian bar and restaurant…

A light in the darkness: Home Kitchen reviewed

16 November 2024 9:00 am

Home Kitchen is in Primrose Hill, another piece of fantasy London, home to the late Martin Amis and Paddington Bear.…

You’re spoiling us: The Ambassadors Clubhouse reviewed

2 November 2024 9:00 am

The Ambassadors Clubhouse is on Heddon Street, close to Savile Row and the fictional HQ of Kingsman, which was a…

Toffee apples: a dangerous food for frightening nights

2 November 2024 9:00 am

Bonfire night is more about burning Catholics than haute cuisine and it shows. I’ve always felt for Catholic friends at…