Tanya Gold

The secrets of chicken soup

22 January 2022 9:00 am

Catherine Chicken is sickly. She has swollen up like a barrage balloon with an evil face and dinosaur feet. She…

The best schnitzel in London: Schnitzel Forever reviewed

15 January 2022 9:00 am

It is a truism that there is never enough schnitzel (‘slice’, German); or, rather, schnitzel does not get the attention…

Anything for a laugh

8 January 2022 9:00 am

‘I went into show business to make a noise, to pronounce myself,’ Mel Brooks told Kenneth Tynan in 1977, in…

The torment of a tasting menu: Hélène Darroze at the Connaught reviewed

18 December 2021 9:00 am

The Connaught Hotel’s formal dining room was always, to me, a place of childish myth; more comforting for being mythical.…

The best Greek salad I’ve ever tasted: INO Gastrobar reviewed

11 December 2021 9:00 am

Soho is so gilded nowadays that even drug addicts look down on it. The wasteland without must match the wasteland…

A small victory in a bad year: José Pizarro at the RA reviewed

27 November 2021 9:00 am

Piccadilly is losing its patina of dirt, its cadaverous character. It is overpriced and over-renovated,a meeting place for luxury goods.…

Sentenced to chicken: NoMad reviewed

13 November 2021 9:00 am

NoMad is a new hotel in what used to be Bow Street Magistrates’ Court: a preening piece of mid-Victorian classicism…

How to get drunk on tiramisu

13 November 2021 9:00 am

You can get drunk on tiramisu. I have done it. It takes two portions at least. You drink (I mean…

Dregs of fake Provence: Whitcomb’s reviewed

30 October 2021 9:00 am

Whitcomb’s is in The Londoner hotel on the south-west corner of Leicester Square. The Londoner calls itself ‘the world’s first…

The Batman restaurant that’s totally bats: Park Row reviewed

16 October 2021 9:00 am

There is a Batman restaurant in London, or rather there was: Savini at the Criterion on Piccadilly Circus. Savini was…

Has Covid killed criticism?

9 October 2021 9:00 am

A world without criticism is just advertising

The real Greek: Lemonia reviewed

2 October 2021 9:00 am

Lemonia lives in the old Chalk Farm Tavern in Primrose Hill, which is better known as the set of Paddington.…

Why The Sopranos remains the greatest gangster drama of all time

18 September 2021 9:00 am

The Sopranos – the greatest television show in history – far outshines its progenitors, says Tanya Gold

Dining in nowhere: Bar des Prés reviewed

18 September 2021 9:00 am

The residents of Mayfair are misnamed: they do not really live here. They live in Mayfair like I live on…

Scarface’s lair with nibbles: Louie reviewed

4 September 2021 9:00 am

A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter,…

‘Lifeless and necrotic’: Native at Browns is an ode to joylessness

21 August 2021 9:00 am

Browns is a famous fashion boutique in deepest Mayfair. It occupies a curved cream townhouse on Brook Street, which seems…

High on the hog: The Pig at Bridge Place reviewed

7 August 2021 9:00 am

The Pig at Bridge Place is not a pig in possession of a country house, but I would be for…

A Damascene moment in London: Imad’s Syrian Kitchen reviewed

24 July 2021 9:00 am

Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is an eyrie off Carnaby Street, a once-famous road which seems to exist nowadays to sell trainers…

The politics of eating lobster

17 July 2021 9:00 am

Lobsters like to live in gullies on the sea floor, or under sand, and I understand how they feel. But…

An utterly convincing dreamworld: The Ritz reviewed

10 July 2021 9:00 am

The Ritz is still here, and still gaudy. No grand hotel in London feels quite so complete, if pink; as…

Harry Potter meets Ikea: Backlot Cafe reviewed

26 June 2021 9:00 am

Harry Potter is a fictional orphan locked in a cupboard by his aunt and uncle, after which he discovers a…

A careful parody: Noble Rot Soho reviewed

12 June 2021 9:00 am

Noble Rot sits in Greek Street, Soho, on the site of the old Gay Hussar, which squatted here from 1953…

Bird-brained: Brood, by Jackie Polzin, reviewed

29 May 2021 9:00 am

This is not a novel about four chickens of various character — Gloria, Miss Hennepin County, Gam Gam and Darkness…

Bad food is back: The Roof Garden at Pantechnicon reviewed

29 May 2021 9:00 am

The Roof Garden is a pale, Nordic-style restaurant at the top of the glorious Pantechnicon in Belgravia — formerly a…

My road trip notebook: castles, Charles Darwin and Churchill’s cuddly toys

22 May 2021 9:00 am

Before pandemic I thought I might drive across America, or even France. Now — what about Kent, the garden of…