Tanya Gold

An inedible catastrophe: Julie’s Restaurant reviewed

5 October 2024 9:00 am

At Julie’s at the fag end of Saturday lunchtime, Notting Hill beauties are defiantly not eating, and the table is…

As good as Noble Rot: Cloth reviewed

21 September 2024 9:00 am

Cloth is opposite St Bartholomew the Great on Cloth Fair. People call this place Farringdon, but it isn’t really: it…

Curiously understated: Porthminster Kitchen reviewed

7 September 2024 9:00 am

Porthminster Kitchen sits above Warren’s Bakery on St Ives Harbour, like a paradigm of the British class system in food.…

The unappetising truth about tasting menus

31 August 2024 9:00 am

The tasting menu has fallen from fashion, and this is good. They are a curio – a window to the…

A slice of Paris in Crouch End: Bistro Aix reviewed

24 August 2024 9:00 am

There is a wonderful cognitive dissonance to Bistro Aix. It thinks it is in Paris but it is really in…

A French restaurant Glastonbury would be proud to host: Café Lapérouse reviewed

10 August 2024 9:00 am

I am working my way around the restaurants of the Old War Office (OWO), now an acronym and Raffles hotel…

Jeremy King has done it again: The Park, reviewed

27 July 2024 9:00 am

The Park is the new restaurant from Jeremy King, and it sits in a golden building to the north of…

‘An uneasy place’: Chez Roux at The Langham reviewed

29 June 2024 9:00 am

The Langham is a Victorian Gothic hotel opposite the BBC in Portland Place. It’s an odd place: haunted house near…

‘Grand and isolated’: The Wolseley City, reviewed

1 June 2024 9:00 am

I am fretting about this restaurant column’s election coverage and then I alight on something superficially grand and lovely, which…

‘Great restaurants can’t thrive in Hampstead’: Ottolenghi reviewed

18 May 2024 9:00 am

Ottolenghi is an Israeli deli co-owned by Yotam Ottolenghi, an Israeli Jew, and Sami Tamimi, a Palestinian Muslim. They met…

‘Five stars, no notes’: Arlington reviewed

20 April 2024 9:00 am

Arlington is named for the 1st Earl of Arlington and his street behind the Ritz Hotel. It used to be…

‘Can’t help but exude warmth’: Paper Moon at the OWO, reviewed

6 April 2024 9:00 am

Paper Moon is the Italian restaurant inside the Old War Office on Whitehall, now a hotel called Raffles London at…

Even pilgrims are staying away from Jerusalem

6 April 2024 9:00 am

Israel has a new train line: 25 minutes from Ben Gurion airport to Jerusalem. The Christian pilgrims would love it…

The strangeness of Charles III

27 January 2024 9:00 am

‘He can cry at a sunset’, says one courtier of the King. A bullied child and an intellectual among George Formby fans, Charles dreams of gardening and plants mazes