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Food

Is the Dorchester the designated grand hotel for fat people? The portions at its new grill say so

And, in the manner of a retirement community, everything is in large print, from the cars in the forecourt to the groups wandering the corridors

7 March 2015

9:00 AM

7 March 2015

9:00 AM

The Dorchester Hotel, Park Lane, is a cake floating in space. All grand hotels create a parallel universe in which their guests are returned to some great gilded and unnatural womb with mini-bar and floristry, but the Dorchester feels particularly remote; has it overplayed its myth? Or is it a combination of the traffic (Park Lane has eight traffic lanes, three roundabouts, one set of unicorn-themed gates and a monument to the dead animals of war), the net curtains (the decorative equivalent of blindness) and the strange completeness of the building?

What does the Dorchester, with its curved beige frontage and...

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The Grill at the Dorchester, Park Lane, London W1K 1QA, tel: 020 7317 6531.

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