Food

Letters: In defence of Boris Johnson

16 July 2022 9:00 am

Boris’s legacy Sir: It is grossly unfair to assert that Boris Johnson’s legacy was the lockdown (Leading article, 9 July).…

Civilisation in a sausage: River Restaurant at the Savoy reviewed

16 July 2022 9:00 am

When the Tory party set itself on fire last week a restaurateur told me: ‘Don’t worry, Tanya, we’ll still be…

Pub food, Disney-style: the George reviewed

2 July 2022 9:00 am

The George, Fitzrovia, was Saki’s local, and a pub for men talking about cars when Great Portland Street was called…

Where to take Jubilee tea: Fortnum & Mason reviewed

4 June 2022 9:00 am

I went to a garden party at Buckingham Palace once. It is coloured in my memory like childhood. There are…

I’m being priced out of eating out

28 May 2022 9:00 am

Restaurant prices are no longer worth it

The perfect restaurant for the Labour party: Arcade reviewed

21 May 2022 9:00 am

I should know better than to visit restaurants assembled as if from disparate bricks, like thrift-shop Duplo: but the ever-credulous…

The linguistic ingredients of ‘salmagundi’

23 April 2022 9:00 am

‘It makes me hungry,’ said my husband when I mentioned the word salmagundi. That is his reaction to many words.…

The Harrods disadvantage: Em Sherif reviewed

23 April 2022 9:00 am

I am never bored with Harrods, only disgusted, and it is disgust of the most animated and exciting kind. It…

My Easter recipe: Greek-style marinated lamb

16 April 2022 9:00 am

Greek-style marinated lamb, Greek salad and tzatziki

Which foods are seeing the biggest price rises?

9 April 2022 9:00 am

Palm substitutes Palm Sunday was so-called because of the palm fronds thrown before Jesus on his entry into Jerusalem. But…

£120 steak that looks like a M&S meal deal: The Maine reviewed

9 April 2022 9:00 am

Last week Chris Corbin and Jeremy King lost controlof the restaurant group they founded: Corbin & King, which made theWolseley,…

My £50-a-week chocolate habit

2 April 2022 9:00 am

As I’ve got older my tastes have generally become less refined. During my youth I dutifully slogged through Kafka, Camus…

The best lamb in London: Blacklock reviewed

26 March 2022 9:00 am

Blacklock is the fourth restaurant of that name – there are others in Soho, Shoreditch and the City of London.…

Food ruined by an existential crisis: Fallow reviewed

12 March 2022 9:00 am

I was going to be jolly this week, for variety and denial, but I changed my mind. Instead, I wonder…

Are you man enough to eat raw offal?

12 March 2022 9:00 am

Real men eat raw offal

A victim of its own mythology: Langan’s Brasserie reviewed

26 February 2022 9:00 am

Langan’s, a brasserie off Piccadilly with curling orange neon signage calling its name, is under new management after it fell…

Why restaurant food at home beats eating out

19 February 2022 9:00 am

‘The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be…

Pass on Piggy’s, head to Hide: central London breakfasts reviewed

12 February 2022 9:00 am

The centre could not hold, at least for Piggy’s. The drama of being the only greasy spoon in the West…

Who survived the sinking of the Titanic?

29 January 2022 9:00 am

Prime numbers As of 29 January Boris Johnson will have been Prime Minister for two years and 190 days. Currently…

A ghost at the feast: The LaLee at the Cadogan hotel, reviewed

29 January 2022 9:00 am

The Cadogan hotel, Chelsea, is where Oscar Wilde was arrested for sodomy and gross indecency in 1895, in Room 118,…

The best schnitzel in London: Schnitzel Forever reviewed

15 January 2022 9:00 am

It is a truism that there is never enough schnitzel (‘slice’, German); or, rather, schnitzel does not get the attention…

The torment of a tasting menu: Hélène Darroze at the Connaught reviewed

18 December 2021 9:00 am

The Connaught Hotel’s formal dining room was always, to me, a place of childish myth; more comforting for being mythical.…

Gastro-nomics: a foodie’s guide to a changing world

18 December 2021 9:00 am

Twice recently I’ve been asked my opinion of ‘Doughnut Economics’. The first time, I was tempted to cover my ignorance…

Just another mad night out at the local bad-food gastropub

13 November 2021 9:00 am

We were enjoying our evening at the overpriced gastropub until a woman in a dark uniform appeared at our table.…

Dregs of fake Provence: Whitcomb’s reviewed

30 October 2021 9:00 am

Whitcomb’s is in The Londoner hotel on the south-west corner of Leicester Square. The Londoner calls itself ‘the world’s first…