Food

As gaudy as Versailles: The Duchess of Cornwall in Poundbury reviewed

16 September 2023 9:00 am

Poundbury is the King’s idealised town in Dorchester, built on his land to his specifications: the town that sprung out…

Why I’m addicted to Australian MasterChef

16 September 2023 9:00 am

Why is Australian MasterChef so much better than the English version? You’d think, with a population less than a third…

Bruton is suddenly the place to be – and I have a theory why: At the Chapel reviewed

2 September 2023 9:00 am

At the Chapel, Bruton, is a restaurant and hotel in a former chapel in Bruton. This was once an ordinary…

Fish and chips: the fast food that made me

19 August 2023 9:00 am

The last meal my parents had before I graced the world with my presence was fish and chips, so I…

A Margherita in Tolkien’s Middle-earth: Pizza in the Courtyard at Sarehole Mill reviewed

19 August 2023 9:00 am

Sarehole Mill is four miles south of the centre of Birmingham. If this were a fairy tale, and it should…

‘Thinks of the diner, not the chef’: Claridge’s Restaurant, reviewed

5 August 2023 9:00 am

The BBC made a very odd documentary about the renovation of Claridge’s: The Mayfair Hotel Megabuild. They filmed, agog, as…

Pavlova: the crumble of summer

5 August 2023 9:00 am

Whenever I tell someone that I’m making a pavlova the response is the same: sheer joy. Even the most fervent…

Big Little Bavaria on Thames: Bierschenke bierkeller reviewed

22 July 2023 9:00 am

I am not sure the vast Bierschenke bierkeller in Covent Garden is successful, even if it is skilful: I worry…

A taste of 1997: Pizza Express reviewed

8 July 2023 9:00 am

As the government withers this column falls to ennui and visits Pizza Express. As David Cameron, who left the world…

As good as pub food gets: The Red Lion, East Chisenbury, reviewed

24 June 2023 9:00 am

The Red Lion, East Chisenbury, is in the Pewsey Vale on the edge of Salisbury Plain. Wiltshire’s strangeness surpasses even…

Home cooking, but idealised: 2 Fore Street reviewed

10 June 2023 9:00 am

The restaurant 2 Fore Street lives on Mousehole harbour, near gift shops: the post office and general store have closed,…

Price caps are a slippery slope

3 June 2023 9:00 am

Sometimes it’s the little things that depress most. I groaned last week to hear the news item. The government is…

Wuthering Heights in Devon: the Pilchard Inn, Burgh Island, reviewed

27 May 2023 9:00 am

The Pilchard Inn sits at the entrance to Burgh Island, a minute tidal island off the coast of south Devon.…

A themed restaurant done right: The Alice, Oxford, reviewed

13 May 2023 9:00 am

The Alice lives in a ground-floor room of the Randolph Hotel in Oxford, which venerates the fantastical and the savage,…

In defence of the supermarket

11 March 2023 11:56 pm

Supermarkets are once again back in the firing line. Henry Dimbleby, the Leon co-founder turned government food tsar, has blamed…

Echoes of John Lewis: Piazza at Royal Opera House reviewed

22 October 2022 9:00 am

The Piazza is not a piazza – a realisation which is always irritating – but a restaurant in the eaves…

If Blairism were a carvery: the Impeccable Pig reviewed

8 October 2022 9:00 am

Labour is 30 points ahead, and in honour of this I review the Impeccable Pig in Sedgefield (Cedd’s field), a…

The art of menus

1 October 2022 9:00 am

Jonathan Meades on the art of menus

What Soho House has got right: Electric Diner reviewed

10 September 2022 9:00 am

Electric Diner is from the Soho House group, which has done terrible things to private clubs, luckless farmhouses, domestic interior…

Among the best puddings I’ve ever eaten: Richoux reviewed

27 August 2022 9:00 am

Cakeism is offering the voters everything they desire, knowing you will never give it to them because you live in…

A great chef at his best: Lisboeta reviewed

13 August 2022 9:00 am

In 2014, Nuno Mendes, a chef from Lisbon by way of Wolfgang Puck’s kitchens and his own Viajante in Bethnal…

When did ‘best before’ dates begin?

6 August 2022 9:00 am

An idea past its sell-by date Waitrose has announced the removal of ‘best before’ dates from many food products. –…

Escaping the memory of Liz Truss: Noci reviewed

30 July 2022 9:00 am

Sometimes this column has a guest reviewer: a dining companion. It was Liz Truss in late summer 2011, for the…

The etymological ingredients of ‘flageons’

30 July 2022 9:00 am

‘Don’t you know the answer?’ asked my husband with mock surprise, throwing over to me from his armchair a copy…

Sack Heathrow’s boss? No, put him on the front line

23 July 2022 9:00 am

Airports are on my mind, since I’ve just stepped off an on-time early-morning flight from East Midlands to Bergerac –…