Food

Dining with death

30 October 2014 3:00 pm

Beast is next to Debenhams on Oxford Street and it is not conventionally beast-like; rather it is monetised and bespoke…

Gymkhana is morally disgusting – and fortunately the food’s disgusting too

18 October 2014 9:00 am

Gymkhana is a fashionable Indian restaurant in Albemarle Street. It was, according to its natty website, ‘inspired by Colonial Indian…

Colonial cringe

16 October 2014 2:00 pm

Gymkhana is a fashionable Indian restaurant in Albemarle Street. It was, according to its natty website, ‘inspired by Colonial Indian…

Today’s Disney princesses look like Russian mafia wives. This is their café

4 October 2014 9:00 am

The Disney Café is a gaudy hell on the fourth floor of Harrods, Knightsbridge. It is adjacent to the Harrods…

Disney matter

2 October 2014 1:00 pm

The Disney Café is a gaudy hell on the fourth floor of Harrods, Knightsbridge. It is adjacent to the Harrods…

Rextail: a restaurant for billionaire children

20 September 2014 9:00 am

Rextail is a restaurant for billionaire children, such as Richie Rich. Its owner, Arcady Novikov, has already opened a restaurant…

My little plutocrat

18 September 2014 1:00 pm

Rextail is a restaurant for billionaire children, such as Richie Rich. Its owner, Arcady Novikov, has already opened a restaurant…

Fischer’s is like visiting Vienna without having to go to Austria (thank God)

6 September 2014 9:00 am

Fischer’s is Austria made safe for liberals, gays, Jews and other Untermenschen riffraff, because it is a restaurant, not a…

Vienna without the Austrians

4 September 2014 1:00 pm

Fischer’s is Austria made safe for liberals, gays, Jews and other Untermenschen riffraff, because it is a restaurant, not a…

Rhubarb has the loveliest, craziest dining room I have ever seen

23 August 2014 9:00 am

The Edinburgh Fringe Festival: the city is full of glassy-eyed narcissists eating haggis pizza off flyers that say Michael Gove:…

Escaping the Fringe

21 August 2014 1:00 pm

The Edinburgh Fringe Festival: the city is full of glassy-eyed narcissists eating haggis pizza off flyers that say Michael Gove:…

L’Escargot is Soho as Soho sees itself

9 August 2014 9:00 am

L’Escargot, or the Snail, is a famous restaurant on Greek Street, Soho, opposite the old Establishment club; the oldest French…

Rebooting the Snail

7 August 2014 1:00 pm

L’Escargot, or the Snail, is a famous restaurant on Greek Street, Soho, opposite the old Establishment club; the oldest French…

Does the Duke of Devonshire really want to be my friend – or is he just after my bank details?

26 July 2014 9:00 am

The Chatsworth estate, Derby-shire. I am overwhelmed by marketing literature. I am prostrate. I am weeping. I am staying in…

Stable conditions

24 July 2014 1:00 pm

The Chatsworth estate, Derby-shire. I am overwhelmed by marketing literature. I am prostrate. I am weeping. I am staying in…

Dean Street Townhouse – at last! Somewhere I'd pay to eat

12 July 2014 9:00 am

Occasionally a critic must review a restaurant in which they are prepared to spend their own money. So here is…

Simple pleasures in Soho

10 July 2014 1:00 pm

Occasionally a critic must review a restaurant in which they are prepared to spend their own money. So here is…

At the Chiltern Firehouse, smugness should be on the menu

28 June 2014 9:00 am

Here then is Gatsby’s house, after an invasion by the Daily Mail. It is called the Chiltern Firehouse. It is…

Dinner with the paparazzi

26 June 2014 1:00 pm

Here then is Gatsby’s house, after an invasion by the Daily Mail. It is called the Chiltern Firehouse. It is…

Something wild – well, wild for Claridge's – in Gordon Ramsay's old cave

14 June 2014 8:00 am

Fera is in Gordon Ramsay’s old cave at Claridge’s. His red and yellow room, like a ripped-off arm, has been…

The pall of the wild

12 June 2014 1:00 pm

Fera is in Gordon Ramsay’s old cave at Claridge’s. His red and yellow room, like a ripped-off arm, has been…

Harry’s Bar, where a slice of cake costs €32 – and is worth it

31 May 2014 9:00 am

Harry’s Bar is a dull pale box. This is remarkable in Venice, which is a hospice for dying palaces, held…

Old Harry’s game

29 May 2014 1:00 pm

Harry’s Bar is a dull pale box. This is remarkable in Venice, which is a hospice for dying palaces, held…

The rudest restaurants in London

17 May 2014 9:00 am

Wong Kei is a mad Chinese restaurant on Wardour Street, Chinatown. Until recently it was considered the rudest restaurant in…

End of the rude

15 May 2014 1:00 pm

Wong Kei is a mad Chinese restaurant on Wardour Street, Chinatown. Until recently it was considered the rudest restaurant in…