Food

Center Parcs Longleat – a stealth socialist utopia on Lord Bath’s estate

10 December 2015 3:00 pm

Center Parcs Longleat is a holiday village in a forest in Wiltshire, on Lord Bath’s estate, so you can never…

Sexy Fish: not so much a restaurant as a museum of London’s rich

28 November 2015 9:00 am

Sexy Fish is a ludicrous restaurant with a ludicrous name in a ludicrous town. It is the latest venture from…

Sexy Fish: not so much a restaurant as a museum of London’s rich

26 November 2015 3:00 pm

Sexy Fish is a ludicrous restaurant with a ludicrous name in a ludicrous town. It is the latest venture from…

Redecorate the restaurant, but you can’t redecorate the clientele

14 November 2015 9:00 am

Forty-five Jermyn St lives in the left-hand buttock of Fortnum & Mason (F&M), a shop whose acronym is slightly too…

Redecorate the restaurant, but you can’t redecorate the clientele

12 November 2015 3:00 pm

Forty-five Jermyn St lives in the left-hand buttock of Fortnum & Mason (F&M), a shop whose acronym is slightly too…

The Pit of hipsterdom

29 October 2015 3:00 pm

Penny is an all-day café in the former Pit Bar in the basement of the Old Vic, a famous and…

The Old Vic’s Pit Bar has fallen to the hipsters – Penny reviewed

29 October 2015 9:00 am

Penny is an all-day café in the former Pit Bar in the basement of the Old Vic, a famous and…

I went to Pedro’s Tex Mex Cantina to claim my racist sombrero

17 October 2015 9:00 am

Pedro’s Tex-Mex Cantina is a fantastical shack near a ring road in Norwich. It was recently asked to stop handing…

I went to Pedro’s Tex Mex Cantina to claim my racist sombrero

15 October 2015 2:00 pm

Pedro’s Tex-Mex Cantina is a fantastical shack near a ring road in Norwich. It was recently asked to stop handing…

Smith & Wollensky doesn’t even serve the best steaks in Covent Garden

3 October 2015 8:00 am

Smith & Wollensky is a restaurant from The Shining: a terrifying American steak joint by the Thames, four months old,…

High steaks

1 October 2015 1:00 pm

Smith & Wollensky is a restaurant from The Shining: a terrifying American steak joint by the Thames, four months old,…

Finally, a foodie restaurant that isn’t pretentious, overpriced or insulting to the intelligence

19 September 2015 8:00 am

I cannot review the Gay Hussar every time the Labour party behaves like a self-harming teenager (‘I don’t want to…

Foodies without the faff

17 September 2015 1:00 pm

I cannot review the Gay Hussar every time the Labour party behaves like a self-harming teenager (‘I don’t want to…

Where comics find their Edinburgh comfort food

5 September 2015 9:00 am

Mum’s, or to use its full title, Mum’s Great Comfort Food, is a restaurant in Edinburgh designed to soothe itinerant…

Comic relief

3 September 2015 1:00 pm

Mum’s, or to use its full title, Mum’s Great Comfort Food, is a restaurant in Edinburgh designed to soothe itinerant…

Boastful, narcissistic, overpriced: welcome to Jamie’s Italian

22 August 2015 9:00 am

Jamie’s Italian is squeezed into the Devonshire Arms on Denman Street, Soho, borne on the duplicitous winds of TV shows…

Jamie in chains

20 August 2015 1:00 pm

Jamie’s Italian is squeezed into the Devonshire Arms on Denman Street, Soho, borne on the duplicitous winds of TV shows…

I Shop Therefore I Am (Dan Kitwood/Getty)

A fake fishing village, and the nastiest thing I’ve eaten as a restaurant critic

8 August 2015 9:00 am

Selfridges is skilled at making things that are not hideous (women) look hideous (women dressed as Bungle from Rainbow or…

I Shop Therefore I Am (Dan Kitwood/Getty)

Something fishy

6 August 2015 1:00 pm

Selfridges is skilled at making things that are not hideous (women) look hideous (women dressed as Bungle from Rainbow or…

Venetian restaurants know I’m English from the back

25 July 2015 9:00 am

The Gatto Nero — or ‘Black Cat’ — is in Burano, a tiny island in the Venetian lagoon. It is…

Trattoria tour

23 July 2015 1:00 pm

The Gatto Nero — or ‘Black Cat’ — is in Burano, a tiny island in the Venetian lagoon. It is…

The joy of an empty Gordon Ramsay restaurant

11 July 2015 9:00 am

The Maze Grill is on a sinister street in Chelsea, between a small Tesco — a boutique Tesco? — and…

Chelsea carnivores

9 July 2015 1:00 pm

The Maze Grill is on a sinister street in Chelsea, between a small Tesco — a boutique Tesco? — and…

The new Ivy doesn’t have the old magic (if there ever was any)

27 June 2015 9:00 am

The Ivy is a Playmobil-style faux-medieval restaurant in a triangular building opposite The Mousetrap; of the two, The Ivy is…

Myths and legends

25 June 2015 1:00 pm

The Ivy is a Playmobil-style faux-medieval restaurant in a triangular building opposite The Mousetrap; of the two, The Ivy is…