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Redecorate the restaurant, but you can’t redecorate the clientele

45 Jermyn St removes the flounces of The Fountain, but retains its soft-faced super-rich diners

14 November 2015

9:00 AM

14 November 2015

9:00 AM

Forty-five Jermyn St lives in the left-hand buttock of Fortnum & Mason (F&M), a shop whose acronym is slightly too close to FGM (female genital mutilation) for this column to be able to relax there for long periods, even though its Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon is excellent. Its name is part of a vogue for naming restaurants after postal addresses, and even street numbers (Richard Caring’s 34 in Mayfair).

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45 Jermyn St, London SW1 6DN, tel: 020 7205 4545.

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