Venice

Venice needs Venexit

23 November 2019 9:00 am

Some of Venice’s problems are well known: the challenge of conserving her famous buildings, the dangers of poorly managed mass…

Will it be kid pie this Christmas?

1 December 2018 9:00 am

A long and messy business is how the chef Rowley Leigh explains his preferred way of eating. Picking at a…

‘The Miracle of St Mark Freeing a Slave’, 1548, by Tintoretto

Tintoretto unmasked

15 September 2018 9:00 am

Tintoretto was il Furioso. He was a lightning flash or a thunderbolt, a storm in La Serenissima of Renaissance Italy,…

Contessa Teresa Guiccioli

Notes on… Lord Byron in Venice

17 March 2018 9:00 am

‘I want to see Venice, and the Alps, and Parmesan cheeses.’ So wrote Lord Byron in 1814, some two years…

Venice all tarted up

30 September 2017 9:00 am

Veneta is a Venetian restaurant inside the St James’s Market development south of Piccadilly Circus. I do not like this…

‘The Japanese’ by Hans Makart, 1870–75

Fickle fortune

23 September 2017 9:00 am

Here’s an intriguing thought experiment: could Damien Hirst disappear? By that I mean not the 52-year-old artist himself — that…

High life

16 September 2017 9:00 am

I’m in Venice for the film festival that just ended and, as an American humorist once wired his paper: ‘Streets…

RA’s Giorgione show is so rich it’s worth returning to several times

19 March 2016 9:00 am

Walter Sickert was once shown a room full of paintings by a proud collector, who had purchased them on the…

‘Portrait of a Young Man’ by Giorgione

Renaissance master? Rascal? Thief? In search of Giorgione

13 February 2016 9:00 am

On 7 February 1506, Albrecht Dürer wrote home to his good friend Willibald Pirckheimer in Nuremberg. The great artist was…

Masterpieces this way

The Venice Accademia: is this the smallest great gallery in the world?

30 January 2016 9:00 am

The Accademia is one of the smallest of the world’s great art galleries, and picture for picture perhaps the most…

Puccini’s villain as swashbuckling hero

29 October 2015 9:00 am

You don’t need to know the opera Tosca to understand and enjoy this book about Puccini’s most notorious villain, Vitellio…

I found the future of privacy among the treasures of Venice

5 September 2015 9:00 am

Almost all of Venice’s greatest treasures are on public view. Anyone who visits can look across from the Doge’s Palace…

Italy is so civilised! Even at a mad dash

29 August 2015 9:00 am

I sprinted through Milan station, speed-read the departures monitor without stopping, and arrived gasping on platform 8 with two minutes…

Venetian restaurants know I’m English from the back

25 July 2015 9:00 am

The Gatto Nero — or ‘Black Cat’ — is in Burano, a tiny island in the Venetian lagoon. It is…

The battle of Lepanto, October 1571

From Barbary corsairs to people-traffickers: the violence of the Mediterranean

30 May 2015 9:00 am

With summer on its way, thoughts turn south to olive groves and manicured vineyards, to the warm water and hot…

The Heckler: Curators were once donnish scholars. Now they’re hip illiterates

25 April 2015 9:00 am

As a purveyor of lairy souvenirs Venice outdoes even Lourdes. The scores of shops and booths that peddle this lagoonal…

Calm and colourful: Burano

How to walk along canals in Venice without feeling like a tourist

7 February 2015 9:00 am

I arrived in Venice believing it would reek of sewage. It didn’t. The walk into the centre went through cobbled…

Peking, c. 1290 (private collection), from ‘The Book of Ser Marco Polo’, edited by Henry Yule, 1903

The real mystery is how it got published

24 January 2015 9:00 am

As a boy I spent quite a lot of my free time trying to fake up ancient-looking documents. This hopeless…

The one economic indicator that never stops rising: meet the Negroni Index

25 October 2014 9:00 am

This dispatch comes to you from Venice — where I arrived at sunset on the Orient Express. More of that…

The Society of Odd Bottles and the Sisterhood of the Black Pudding

13 September 2014 9:00 am

The Honourable Society of Odd Bottles has been mentioned in this column before. I can report that the membership is…

Coco Chanel, one of the ‘rackety celebrities’ of the 1920s, with Duke Laurino of Rome on the Lido

A Hello! magazine history of Venice

23 August 2014 9:00 am

When Napoleon Bonaparte captured Venice in 1797, he extinguished what had been the most successful regime in the history of…

Harry’s Bar, where a slice of cake costs €32 – and is worth it

31 May 2014 9:00 am

Harry’s Bar is a dull pale box. This is remarkable in Venice, which is a hospice for dying palaces, held…

Fernand Léger ‘s ‘The City’, 1919

The tubular joys of Fernand Léger

22 March 2014 9:00 am

In 1914 Fernand Léger gave a lecture about modern art. By then recognised as a leading Cubist artist, he had…

Welcome to Big Venice: How London became a tourist-trap city

10 August 2013 9:00 am

Queuing to gain admittance to the pavement of Westminster Bridge on a ferociously hot Sunday afternoon recently, I found myself…