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Food

‘Is it France? I don’t know’: Hôtel de Crillon, Paris, reviewed

10 February 2024

9:00 AM

10 February 2024

9:00 AM

Hôtel de Crillon sits on the Place de la Concorde, a vast square renamed for bloodshed, then the lack of it – it was the Place de la Révolution, with knitting and bouncing heads. Now it is placid, and the Crillon is the most placid thing in it.

No one does grand hotels like the French, except perhaps the Swiss, who have nothing better to do.

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