Food
The day of the pig
I write this column at the point of a pitchfork. A, normally so placid — ‘He’s so placid!’ people like…
Scene of the crime
Scott’s, Mount Street, Mayfair: the scene of the crime or, for those who do not read newspapers, the place where…
Friendly and ghostlike
Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill is named for superstition, snobbery and avarice. At a dinner at the Savoy in 1898…
An ice-cream war
The Antica Roma is an ice-cream shop near the Spanish Steps in Rome; recently, it served four English tourists called…
Steak, chips and misogyny
STK is a steakhouse at the bottom of the ME Hotel on the Aldwych. (This is a real name for…
There will be spuds
Exmouth Market is a small collection of paved streets near the Farringdon Travelodge, which specialises in monomaniacal restaurants and has…
In the Ritz
The Ritz Hotel is a cake on Piccadilly made of stone; inside this cake, Lady Thatcher died. Some think it…
The dark heart of the Café Royal
The Ten Room is the -restaurant inside the new Café Royal Hotel, which occupies the curve of Regent Street from…
Loo role
I love metaphor, and now metaphor has led me to a toilet near Goodge Street, in that thankless patch of…
Marching out of Balthazar
Balthazar is a golden cave in Covent Garden, in the old Theatre (Luvvie) Museum, home to dead pantomime horses and…