Food

Big Little Bavaria on Thames: Bierschenke bierkeller reviewed

22 July 2023 9:00 am

I am not sure the vast Bierschenke bierkeller in Covent Garden is successful, even if it is skilful: I worry…

A taste of 1997: Pizza Express reviewed

8 July 2023 9:00 am

As the government withers this column falls to ennui and visits Pizza Express. As David Cameron, who left the world…

As good as pub food gets: The Red Lion, East Chisenbury, reviewed

24 June 2023 9:00 am

The Red Lion, East Chisenbury, is in the Pewsey Vale on the edge of Salisbury Plain. Wiltshire’s strangeness surpasses even…

Home cooking, but idealised: 2 Fore Street reviewed

10 June 2023 9:00 am

The restaurant 2 Fore Street lives on Mousehole harbour, near gift shops: the post office and general store have closed,…

Wuthering Heights in Devon: the Pilchard Inn, Burgh Island, reviewed

27 May 2023 9:00 am

The Pilchard Inn sits at the entrance to Burgh Island, a minute tidal island off the coast of south Devon.…

A themed restaurant done right: The Alice, Oxford, reviewed

13 May 2023 9:00 am

The Alice lives in a ground-floor room of the Randolph Hotel in Oxford, which venerates the fantastical and the savage,…

Faultless food with the promise of vengeance: The Trough, reviewed

29 April 2023 9:00 am

Lady Bamford’s Cotswold fairy-land Daylesford Farm has sprouted leaves. It is no longer a farm shop, which should be a…

Serious about its whimsy: Sessions Arts Club reviewed

15 April 2023 9:00 am

The Sessions Arts Club is a restaurant inside the Old Session House in Clerkenwell, a pale George III building where…

Eat here now: Darjeeling Express reviewed

1 April 2023 9:00 am

Darjeeling Express lives at the top of Kingly Court, just off Carnaby Street, which was once the world-famous embodiment of…

All mirrors and monochrome: Mister Nice reviewed

18 March 2023 9:00 am

Mister Nice is not so much a restaurant as a pre-dawn thought flung into the drag between Piccadilly Circus and…

Too perfect for Instagram: Cédric Grolet at the Berkeley reviewed

4 March 2023 9:00 am

The Cédric Grolet at the Berkeley lives in the shiniest hotel in Knightsbridge, though I prefer the Mandarin Oriental, because…

An innate contradiction: Mount St Restaurant reviewed

18 February 2023 9:00 am

The Mount St Restaurant lives above the Audley Public House on Mount Street, ‘a traditional neighbourhood pub, carefully restored, and…

Still thrilling: the Wolseley reviewed

4 February 2023 9:00 am

Restaurant and dog years are similar, and so the Wolseley, which is 20 this year, seems as if it has…

Better than the original: Scott’s Richmond reviewed

18 January 2023 10:00 pm

Scott’s, Richmond, is a fish, champagne and oyster bar, and a new branch of Scott’s, Mayfair. The original Scott’s was…

Rich pickings: Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal reviewed

7 January 2023 9:00 am

Alex Dilling at the Hotel Café Royal is a minute restaurant above Regent Street, which has the type of British…

Beyond satire: Richard Caring’s Bacchanalia reviewed

17 December 2022 9:00 am

Bacchanalia is the new restaurant from Richard Caring – I sense he would like me to call it a ‘landmark’…

The best Ukrainian restaurant you will find: Mriya reviewed

10 December 2022 9:00 am

Mriya lives at the end of Old Brompton Road where South Kensington turns into Earl’s Court and, as if by…

Another wasteland lost: Battersea Power Station reviewed 

19 November 2022 9:00 am

The rude fingers of Battersea are repointed, and barely rude at all. The power station by Giles Gilbert Scott and…

Theme of despair: Drop’N Chicken at Chessington reviewed

5 November 2022 9:00 am

Chessington World of Adventures sits in a bowl near the A3. I went in the 1970s when it was a…

Echoes of John Lewis: Piazza at Royal Opera House reviewed

22 October 2022 9:00 am

The Piazza is not a piazza – a realisation which is always irritating – but a restaurant in the eaves…

If Blairism were a carvery: the Impeccable Pig reviewed

8 October 2022 9:00 am

Labour is 30 points ahead, and in honour of this I review the Impeccable Pig in Sedgefield (Cedd’s field), a…

Fine food in a sinister Weimar wine cellar: Bardo St James’s Restaurant reviewed

24 September 2022 9:00 am

Bardo St James’s Restaurant – a name which reads like a map – is a vast new Italian restaurant in…

What Soho House has got right: Electric Diner reviewed

10 September 2022 9:00 am

Electric Diner is from the Soho House group, which has done terrible things to private clubs, luckless farmhouses, domestic interior…

Among the best puddings I’ve ever eaten: Richoux reviewed

27 August 2022 9:00 am

Cakeism is offering the voters everything they desire, knowing you will never give it to them because you live in…

A great chef at his best: Lisboeta reviewed

13 August 2022 9:00 am

In 2014, Nuno Mendes, a chef from Lisbon by way of Wolfgang Puck’s kitchens and his own Viajante in Bethnal…