Tanya Gold

The Batman restaurant that’s totally bats: Park Row reviewed

16 October 2021 9:00 am

There is a Batman restaurant in London, or rather there was: Savini at the Criterion on Piccadilly Circus. Savini was…

Has Covid killed criticism?

9 October 2021 9:00 am

A world without criticism is just advertising

The real Greek: Lemonia reviewed

2 October 2021 9:00 am

Lemonia lives in the old Chalk Farm Tavern in Primrose Hill, which is better known as the set of Paddington.…

Why The Sopranos remains the greatest gangster drama of all time

18 September 2021 9:00 am

The Sopranos – the greatest television show in history – far outshines its progenitors, says Tanya Gold

Dining in nowhere: Bar des Prés reviewed

18 September 2021 9:00 am

The residents of Mayfair are misnamed: they do not really live here. They live in Mayfair like I live on…

Scarface’s lair with nibbles: Louie reviewed

4 September 2021 9:00 am

A French creole restaurant rises in the sullen ruins of London. It is called Louie, for French king or trumpeter,…

‘Lifeless and necrotic’: Native at Browns is an ode to joylessness

21 August 2021 9:00 am

Browns is a famous fashion boutique in deepest Mayfair. It occupies a curved cream townhouse on Brook Street, which seems…

High on the hog: The Pig at Bridge Place reviewed

7 August 2021 9:00 am

The Pig at Bridge Place is not a pig in possession of a country house, but I would be for…

A Damascene moment in London: Imad’s Syrian Kitchen reviewed

24 July 2021 9:00 am

Imad’s Syrian Kitchen is an eyrie off Carnaby Street, a once-famous road which seems to exist nowadays to sell trainers…

The politics of eating lobster

17 July 2021 9:00 am

Lobsters like to live in gullies on the sea floor, or under sand, and I understand how they feel. But…

An utterly convincing dreamworld: The Ritz reviewed

10 July 2021 9:00 am

The Ritz is still here, and still gaudy. No grand hotel in London feels quite so complete, if pink; as…

Harry Potter meets Ikea: Backlot Cafe reviewed

26 June 2021 9:00 am

Harry Potter is a fictional orphan locked in a cupboard by his aunt and uncle, after which he discovers a…

A careful parody: Noble Rot Soho reviewed

12 June 2021 9:00 am

Noble Rot sits in Greek Street, Soho, on the site of the old Gay Hussar, which squatted here from 1953…

Bird-brained: Brood, by Jackie Polzin, reviewed

29 May 2021 9:00 am

This is not a novel about four chickens of various character — Gloria, Miss Hennepin County, Gam Gam and Darkness…

Bad food is back: The Roof Garden at Pantechnicon reviewed

29 May 2021 9:00 am

The Roof Garden is a pale, Nordic-style restaurant at the top of the glorious Pantechnicon in Belgravia — formerly a…

My road trip notebook: castles, Charles Darwin and Churchill’s cuddly toys

22 May 2021 9:00 am

Before pandemic I thought I might drive across America, or even France. Now — what about Kent, the garden of…

Pretty food with a side order of pollution: 28-50 reviewed

15 May 2021 9:00 am

You cannot have cars and dining tables in the same dreamscape: it doesn’t work, unless you think carbon monoxide is…

Pleasing perversity: St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys reviewed

1 May 2021 9:00 am

The St Pancras Brasserie and Champagne Bar by Searcys is as expansive as its name, but ghostly. It is an…

Back to the future: Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill reviewed

17 April 2021 9:00 am

The west end of London is still pale and necrotic, but there are points of light. Hatchards the bookseller is…

Anti-Semitism and the far left

10 April 2021 9:00 am

The comic David Baddiel has written a book which explains that much of the far left hates Jews. There are…

Spring lamb and the bread of affliction: our Zoom seder

3 April 2021 9:00 am

This week my son came home from school and asked me if it was true that the Jews killed Jesus.…

The finest humous in England: Arabica food boxes reviewed

20 March 2021 9:00 am

Restaurant-goers who cannot let go of restaurants — for professional or other reasons — are floating on a sea of…

In defence of Meghan, the demonised duchess

13 March 2021 9:00 am

The unfair demonisation of a duchess

Prince Harry’s brave revelation

8 March 2021 9:28 pm

Monarchy is madness, a national delusion in which adults behave as children and project onto the objects of their desire.…

Cornwall, but not as the locals know it: Stein’s at Home reviewed

6 March 2021 9:00 am

The Stein’s at Home steak menu box (£65) says ‘Love from Cornwall’: it is not for people who live in…