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Food

Simple pleasures in Soho

10 July 2014

1:00 PM

10 July 2014

1:00 PM

Occasionally a critic must review a restaurant in which they are prepared to spend their own money. So here is the Dean Street Townhouse. It is a terrible name, because all houses in Dean Street, a fusty artery of Soho, are town houses; they are not Wendy houses or country houses or dolls’ houses.

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