Sherry trifle
Christmas brings out the best and the worst in me. It’s a chance to give in to my inclination to…
Lancashire hotpot
Nine months ago, after a decade spent in London, I moved to Lancashire. Although I’m a northerner born and bred,…
Chicken Marbella
What is it about retro food? I don’t mean nostalgic food, from school dinner favourites to your grandmother’s signature dishes.…
Bone to pick
Why I retrained as a butcher
Cherry clafoutis
My daydreams at the moment follow a predictable theme. I am on holiday somewhere balmy, with a carafe of cold…
Boiling point
Professional kitchens have always seemed like pressure cookers: hot, sweaty, stressful. The caricature of a head chef is angry, sweary,…
Broadmoor tales
True crime is having a moment: every day there’s a new documentary, book, podcast, or blockbuster film announced, detailing the…
Cornish pasties
This week, world leaders are doing what countless Brits do every summer: unpacking their bags in a charming corner of…
Comfort in dark times
Nigella Lawson is many things to many people: the perfect hostess, the TV star, the thinking man’s crumpet. To me…
While Dutch schools ban birthday cakes, the British pine for the next Bake Off
The Way We Eat Now begins with a single bunch of grapes. The bunch is nothing special to the modern…
Tesco’s new Brexit supermarket doesn’t stack up
Supermarkets have always moved with the times. After the recession we wanted affordable luxury, so we got M&S’s ‘Dine in…
Two new books by barristers chronicle the perilous state of our justice system
‘The first thing we do, let’s kill all the lawyers,’ says Dick the Butcher in Henry VI, Part II. Mostly,…
Fad fury
Anthony Warner is angry. He’s angry about diets. He’s angry about detoxes. He’s angry about pseudoscience — and he has…
Just suet!
I am standing outside my house in an apron and a pair of slippers, holding kidney offcuts in my hands.…
