Get on any bus speeding down Victoria Road and (on the right one), you land in Parramatta. 

It used to be a bit daggy, dreary, a hard-struggle place, but look at it now – or rather, look at who made it now. Why, it’s those men and women of many racial identities, many cultures, many languages, but all speaking perfectly understandable ‘strine as they serve you some of the best cooking you’ll savour in Sydney (but this is Parra, remember?) sell you anything from saris to (modest!) swimsuits and strive on, day after day, working, working, for themselves and their families,...