The last time I reviewed a restaurant in Selfridges, a PR man rang up to ask what he could do to change my opinion of Selfridges. Don’t worry, I told him, Spectator readers don’t go to Selfridges to sit in a fake Cornish fishing village, because they are too busy eating the remnants of the Labour party.
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The Brass Rail, Selfridges, Oxford St, London W1A 1AB, tel: 020 7318 3115.
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