Restaurants

It is essentially a crap Le Gavroche, and that is not an insult: Roux at Parliament Square reviewed

22 September 2018 9:00 am

Politicians are having a terrible time of late, along with the rest of us — it’s not much fun watching…

I am served up a crime against breakfast: Sketch reviewed

8 September 2018 9:00 am

Sketch is a restaurant and art gallery in Conduit Street, Mayfair. There is a photograph of the Queen in the…

Temper, a new pizza restaurant in Covent Garden, land of the itinerant rich

11 August 2018 9:00 am

Temper is a new pizza restaurant in Mercers Walk, Covent Garden, and it is as glib and polished as you…

Wedge salad in the shadow of the Tudors: Sargeant’s Mess reviewed

30 June 2018 9:00 am

Sargeant’s Mess (2018) is a tourist catcher’s net in restaurant form by the Tower of London (c. 1078). It has views…

Food that’s prettier than you are: The Petersham reviewed

2 June 2018 9:00 am

The Petersham is a fading hotel on Richmond Hill. I went to a bar mitzvah there in 1986, which gives…

Dear Mary: As best man, can I seduce the groom’s sister?

26 May 2018 9:00 am

Q. We often take friends to what my husband calls a ‘poncey’ pub which has won numerous awards and where…

Too good for the kleptocrats of Knightsbridge: Harry’s Dolce Vita reviewed

24 March 2018 9:00 am

In 2007 Mikhael Gorbachev starred in a Louis Vuitton advert. He was driven past the Berlin Wall with Louis Vuitton…

As restaurants go, it’s important – and it knows it: the River Café reviewed

10 March 2018 9:00 am

Jilly Cooper’s fictional hero Rupert Campbell-Black has ‘never been to Hammersmith’. I have but I wish I hadn’t. I love…

A new addition to north London’s underwhelming restaurants: Café Hampstead reviewed

10 February 2018 9:00 am

Café Hampstead is a new café in — big reveal! — Hampstead, the gaudiest of the old villages on the…

It’s survived universal suffrage and two world wars: restaurant Rules reviewed

16 December 2017 9:00 am

Rules looks as if it voted for Brexit, and now finds itself inside an eternal Christmas Eve, where it is…

Farmacy’s food is the worst I have eaten in London

25 November 2017 9:00 am

Farmacy, which opened last year, is London’s most fashionable ‘clean eating’ restaurant; it is, therefore, a restaurant for people who…

The queen of hotels

28 October 2017 9:00 am

Jean-Georges at the Connaught — formerly the Prince of Saxe-Coburg Hotel, but it was renamed during the first world war,…

Elle Decoration meets pub food

14 October 2017 9:00 am

The Mandrake is a new ‘design hotel’ in London, which means it is for people who treat Elle Decoration magazine…

In silent misremembrance

14 September 2017 1:00 pm

Foxlow is near Golden Square in west Soho, where drunken hacks used to take long drunken lunches before having stupid…

Tapas but no phantom

19 August 2017 9:00 am

I am always surprised to remember that Andrew Lloyd Webber has taste; it must be remembrance of Cats. I was…

Dear Mary: What can you do when your new neighbours stiff you on a restaurant bill?

4 June 2016 9:00 am

Q. We moved recently and new neighbours invited us to join them for dinner at a nearby restaurant. I planned…

The RA’s new restaurant prioritises its art over its customers

28 May 2016 9:00 am

The Keeper’s House sits in the basement of Burlington House, a restaurant in disguise. It is quite different from the…

Word of the week: 'concept'

28 May 2016 9:00 am

‘It was nothing special, but it was a pub,’ said my husband, looking up from his copy of Bar magazine…

Nicholas Soames’s Twitter account is a miracle (and so is his diet)

21 May 2016 9:00 am

Miracles are not ceased. A few years ago, a kindly educational therapist took pity on John Prescott and set out…

The horrors of Soho House’s country outpost

14 May 2016 9:00 am

It is summer and the listless metropolitan thinks of grass. It cannot afford to stay at Durslade Farmhouse, Somerset, a…

Meet London’s senior mayor (no, it’s not Sadiq)

7 May 2016 9:00 am

London’s other mayor How many people could name the capital’s other mayor, the Lord Mayor of London? The office, officially…

The most beautiful restaurant in London – from the outside

30 April 2016 9:00 am

Batman owned the Criterion in The Dark Knight, but could he do anything about British Telecom? Savini at Criterion, an…

Would you like to buy an American’s vote?

26 March 2016 9:00 am

Killing time in a Heathrow first-class lounge, I notice how many men adopt an unmistakable ‘first-class lounge’ persona. They stand…

The new Wheeler’s is the worst thing Marco Pierre White has ever done

19 March 2016 9:00 am

Wheeler’s is such a dreadful restaurant that I wonder if Marco Pierre White even knows his name is on it.…

Pharmacy 2 makes me like Damien Hirst

5 March 2016 9:00 am

Pharmacy 2 is the reanimated child of Damien Hirst; it lives inside the Newport Street Gallery in a forsaken patch of…