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The heady, hedonistic summer in which I became a life-long foreigner

2 December 2023 9:00 am

Rome I have spent almost all my adult life as a foreigner. When I graduated from Oxford I faced a…

Grumpiness is a way of life

18 November 2023 9:00 am

Be prepared to wait: how to make French onion soup like the French

11 November 2023 9:00 am

Let me be clear: this week’s recipe is not a speedy little number. You can’t knock up a French onion…

How not to talk to builders

4 November 2023 9:00 am

It’s week eight of the installation of a cheap Ikea kitchen in my flat, and an Albanian builder is slumped…

The death of royalty

28 October 2023 9:00 am

The cohorts of Hamas have invaded my neighbourhood. I was walking my dog, Maxi, in the afterglow of a shower…

Dark, bold and perfect for autumn: how to make the perfect honey cake

28 October 2023 9:00 am

I did not plan to cook a loaf cake when I embarked on concocting a traditional honey cake recipe. The…

They call me the ‘problem teetotaller’

21 October 2023 9:00 am

My guts went on strike last July. I was staying in a hotel and I spent several days sprawled on…

Glorious and nostalgic: how to make corned beef pie

14 October 2023 9:00 am

A few weeks ago I was at the super-market juggling a toddler, several heavy bags and, it transpired, no pound…

The timeless beauty of a French apple tart

30 September 2023 9:00 am

There is, as the saying goes, more than one way to skin a cat. The same could be said –…

My two tips for perfect aubergine parmigiana

16 September 2023 9:00 am

In the middle of an unpredictable Indian summer, here is a recipe from sultry southern Italy which is suitable for…

Tarte tropézienne, the glamorous dessert named by Brigitte Bardot

2 September 2023 9:00 am

Is there a more glamorous piece of pâtisserie than the tarte tropézienne? Born in the inherently chic Saint-Tropez, named by…

Fish and chips: the fast food that made me

19 August 2023 9:00 am

The last meal my parents had before I graced the world with my presence was fish and chips, so I…

Pavlova: the crumble of summer

5 August 2023 9:00 am

Whenever I tell someone that I’m making a pavlova the response is the same: sheer joy. Even the most fervent…

French tomato tart: a simple celebration of summer

22 July 2023 9:00 am

Last year, we grew tomatoes for the first time. And we did so with our characteristic enthusiasm, lack of knowledge…

How to make proper vanilla ice cream

8 July 2023 9:00 am

I could map out my life geographically and temporally in scoops of ice cream. From the oyster delights handed over…

Cobb salad: a bright idea for summer suppers

24 June 2023 9:00 am

They do salads differently in America. Caesar salad, Waldorf salad, even their egg salads and potato salads: they’re big, they’re…

Yoghurt pot cake: the perfect sugary blank canvas

10 June 2023 9:00 am

I’m pretty easygoing when it comes to most aspects of cooking. I don’t think there’s much to be gained from…

Confit: the best (and most delicious) way of cooking duck

27 May 2023 9:00 am

Of all the myriad ways of preserving, confit always strikes me as wonderfully improbable. The ability to preserve meat just…

Yorkshire puddings: is there anything as satisfying?

29 April 2023 9:00 am

My mother, a Yorkshire woman, would occasionally take shortcuts in the kitchen, but not when it came to a roast,…

Chess pie: how to make the flakiest pastry

15 April 2023 9:00 am

Chess pie was, in one sense, new to me when I started learning about it a few months ago. I’d…

Bring back the savoury!

1 April 2023 9:00 am

For a while now, we’ve been living through a renaissance of classical British cooking: a whole host of restaurants have…

Kugelhopf: a reassuring introduction to baking with yeast

18 March 2023 9:00 am

Yeast scares even some of the most proficient cooks. I know home cooks and professionals alike, food writers and fanatics,…