There would have been some long and pale faces recently at the excellent Sportsman pub in Saltwater after Canterbury City Council gave it a damning two-star hygiene rating.

This much-loved Michelin star pub recently wowed some friends of mine with skate wings and caviar-rimmed oysters. It’s hard to square their delicious meal with the descriptions of mouldy surfaces in the refrigerators, stained food storage containers, and chefs wearing leather bracelets while cooking.