Drink

A lunch good enough to lift Tory spirits

22 June 2024 9:00 am

Things could have been worse. My host was determined to lunch al fresco, and after all it was late June.…

The joy of Portuguese wines

8 June 2024 9:00 am

There was a wonderful old boy called John – Sir John – Wordie, who was a quintessential member of the…

The best bottle to come from the Gigondas

25 May 2024 9:00 am

One needs wine more than ever, yet when imbibing, it can be hard to concentrate. So much is going on.…

How to become an old soak

11 May 2024 9:00 am

Drink and longevity: there seems to have been a successful counter-attack against the puritans, prohibitionists and other health faddists. Indeed,…

The case for Churchillian drinking

27 April 2024 9:00 am

Churchill. No disrespect to Andrew Roberts’s more recent work, but I set out to look up a point about drink…

The glory of German wines

13 April 2024 9:00 am

I have had three recent conversations, all lively if unrelated – and all well lubricated. The first concerned Anglo-Saxon England…

I’m a rosé convert

17 February 2024 9:00 am

The miracle of limoncello

3 February 2024 9:00 am

My adventures in rosé

6 January 2024 9:00 am

‘The food is as good as you will find in London’: Saison at Raffles London, reviewed

11 November 2023 9:00 am

The Old War Office (bad acronym OWO) on Whitehall is now a Raffles hotel: you can stay in Winston Churchill’s…

The world is a mess. Why not find escapism through wine?

4 November 2023 9:00 am

In most children’s stories, the good characters live happily ever after. Works suitable for older readers tend to greater realism.…

‘They do better spaghetti bolognese in Hampstead for a tenner’: The Lobby at The Peninsula, reviewed

28 October 2023 9:00 am

The Peninsula is a new hotel at Hyde Park Corner. It is part of the trend for absurd expense: rooms…

It’s time to take Italian wine seriously

21 October 2023 9:00 am

Tuscany: earth has not anything to show more fair. The landscape is charming. The gentle hills seem to smile down…

‘Well-priced and skilful’: Masala Zone, reviewed

14 October 2023 9:00 am

There are cursed restaurants and cursed women, and this makes them no less interesting. One is Maxim’s in Paris, which…

Tories know how to find themselves a good drink

7 October 2023 9:00 am

I feel old, and feelings are not always wrong, This eheu fugaces mood came on me at the Conservative party…

Fine food in a fine restaurant: Origin City reviewed

30 September 2023 9:00 am

Origin City is a good name for this restaurant, whether it knows it or not. It is at West Smithfield,…

You have to be truly incompetent to eat badly in Paris

23 September 2023 9:00 am

Paris has enough great restaurants to maintain its claim to be the world capital of gastronomy. That said, Parisian residents…

As gaudy as Versailles: The Duchess of Cornwall in Poundbury reviewed

16 September 2023 9:00 am

Poundbury is the King’s idealised town in Dorchester, built on his land to his specifications: the town that sprung out…

A perfect slice of Calabria

9 September 2023 9:00 am

The Romans wrote the history, or at least the myths. But long before Romulus murdered Remus, the Mediterranean – the…