Harry’s Bar, where a slice of cake costs €32 – and is worth it
Harry’s Bar is a dull pale box. This is remarkable in Venice, which is a hospice for dying palaces, held…
The rudest restaurants in London
Wong Kei is a mad Chinese restaurant on Wardour Street, Chinatown. Until recently it was considered the rudest restaurant in…
After visiting the Cherwell Boathouse, I might spare Oxford from burning
It is now two decades since I lived in Oxford. I was then a drunk and lonely puddle of a…
Marcus Wareing drops a name
In the ‘Chefs’ Last Supper’ in the National Portrait Gallery, Marcus Wareing is throwing a brie at Gordon Ramsay, who…
Gordon Ramsay joins in the posh invasion of Battersea
London House is in Battersea, which some people call South Chelsea, but is more East Wandsworth to my mind; or…
Who dines at Highgrove when Prince Charles doesn't?
Highgrove is the country house of the Prince of Wales. I write about Highgrove because, although it is not a…
So is Moro a Tory restaurant now?
Moro (‘moorish’ or ‘sexist’) is a Spanish restaurant on Exmouth Market, near the bones of the old Guardian and Observer…
The Fable would do better as an American Psycho theme bar
The Fable is three floors high and two days old, a monster newly hatched on the Holborn Viaduct; deep below…
Lanes of London is dining for Martians
Lanes of London serves street food to people who hate streets; that is, it exists to soothe the still-curious mouths…
The 1980s relics of Langan's Brasserie
Langan’s Brasserie announces its presence with a long, pink neon line of Langanses, tootling prettily along its façade, which is…
Tanya Gold: Child-friendly, sex-free, nut-heavy – just the hotel for my 40th birthday
Woolley Grange is a child-friendly country house hotel that seems, at first, entirely monstrous — a grey Tudor house in…
Tanya Gold: The sheer horror of Hyde Park's Winter Wonderland
Winter Wonderland is a Christmas-themed playground that lands on the sorry part of Hyde Park in November; the part that…
Tanya Gold: Eating in the lobby at Canary Wharf
One Canada Square was the original glass house in east London’s Gotham City, a thrilling tower with a flashing pyramid…
Boulestin has nothing to do with Marcel Boulestin — but could entice Mary Berry
Boulestin is a pretty restaurant on St James’s Street, between the posh fag shop (Davidoff) and the old palace, which…
Food: Heston’s brown Dinner, with a side order of irritation
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a brown cavern in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, Knightsbridge, has won a second Michelin star. These…
Gordon Ramsay's violently unsexy new restaurant shows he's near the end
The Union Street Café is in a dismal, dingy part of London; dismal dingy Southwark. Southwark, in fact, is almost…
The Wild Rabbit's food may be organic - but nothing else there is
The Wild Rabbit is a pub in the Cotswolds, that small corner of Britain full of evil grinning cottages; if…
A restaurant in a synagogue. How strange can it be?
A restaurant in a synagogue may be too mad even for this column but we are Jews, so why not?…
A Roald Dahl tea? It reminds me more of Jimmy Savile
One Aldwych, an Edwardian grand hotel near Waterloo Bridge, is serving a Jimmy Savile tribute tea. It is not explicitly…
‘Like a concentration camp run by KFC’: Tanya Gold visits Shake Shack
Shake Shack is a hamburger restaurant in Covent Garden market. It came from New York and it is as needy…
Tanya Gold on eating at the Shard
What to say about the Shard that isn’t said by the fact it is 1,020 feet high and looks like…
Tanya Gold eats suckling pig at Le Café Anglais
I write this column at the point of a pitchfork. A, normally so placid — ‘He’s so placid!’ people like…
