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Every page of this astonishingly beautiful ode to the citrus is a treat

Laura Freeman is transported by J.C. Volkamer’s astonishingly beautiful ode to the citrus

19 December 2020

9:00 AM

19 December 2020

9:00 AM

There’s an episode of Yes Minister called ‘Equal Opportunities’. Minister Jim Hacker is under pressure to recruit more women to the civil service. The hunt is on for female mandarins. ‘Ah,’ says principal private secretary Bernard. ‘Sort of… satsumas?’ At this time of year, I can’t help thinking of Bernard as I hover in the Co-op over nets of tangerines, mandarins, clementines, satsumas and ‘easy peelers’, whatever they are.

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The Book of Citrus Fruits by J.C. Volkamer, ed. Iris Lauterbach, is published by Taschen.

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