When one first lands in Warsaw, it’s easy to dismiss the prevailing Soviet realist architecture. The endless blocks of flats in various stages of deterioration. The post-communism proliferation of soulless Western hotels and office blocks. What stands out, however, is the collective heart and spirit of her people.

I abhor nanny state absurdities and thus came to attend the Global Nicotine Forum, an annual conference debunking myths about nicotine’s dangers, and promoting alternatives for smokers wanting pleasurable nicotine fixes without what kills: the deadly tars and toxins in tobacco smoke.