Morocco
Are the Abraham Accords working?
Two years ago, UAE citizens were barred from entering Israel. No longer. The inaugural Emirates flight touched down in Tel…
Keeping faith
Imagine being on indefinite lockdown, imprisoned in a dark, underground, 6’ x 12’ cell, freezing in winter, boiling in summer…
A thousand and one nightmares
The Moroccan-born Leïla Slimani has made her name writing novels of propulsive intensity. Lullaby, the story of a nanny who…
Notebook
This time last year I was running around excitedly telling all my friends that I had an African president in…
Indiscreet astronaut
Among my more bohemian friends in 1980s London, Brion Gysin was a name spoken with a certain awe. He was…
Fez
Fez is one of the seven medieval wonders of the world. An intact Islamic city defined by its circuit of…
No shrinking Violet
Evelyn Waugh once recalled the anguish with which he greeted Edith Sitwell’s announcement that ‘Mr Waugh, you may call me…













