Wild life
It was towards dusk by the time we had given the tourist police the slip and started climbing the pyramid…
Killing in Kenya: Aidan Hartley tracks the last steps of an elephant
Laikipia The bull elephant had roamed our northern marches of the Laikipia plateau for decades. I always recognised him…
Wild life
Laikipia The bull elephant had roamed our northern marches of the Laikipia plateau for decades. I always recognised him…
The Ghosts of Happy Valley, by Juliet Barnes - review
Rift Valley, Kenya The other day when I told the headmaster of a top British public school that I came…
A binge on alcohol and meat, plus hired sex and lodging — all for £1.50
Kenya Home is beyond the perimeter of modern Kenya and way off the grid. When the ancient generator goes off…
Wild life
Kenya Home is beyond the perimeter of modern Kenya and way off the grid. When the ancient generator goes off…
Wild life
Il Pinguaan Springs When I first saw the Pinguaan Springs they were small, fetid bogs set about with papyrus, the…
Wild life
A leopard has been on the rampage night after night. We know her because she often lurks in the woods…
Wild life
Colobus monkeys in the forest were throat singing like Tibetan monks. Mist rose from the Kericho tea gardens above us…
Wild life
Rift Valley ‘We’re on the frontline,’ I said. ‘And however many guns we had, it wouldn’t be enough against the…
Wild life
Rift Valley I am training for a half-marathon on the slopes of Mount Kenya in June and I must prepare…
Wild life
Rift Valley ‘I’ve got a brilliant idea,’ said Jools on the phone, his voice characteristically rising like a commentator on…
Wild life
Gilgil, Kenya Pembroke House, our children’s school, is a little slice of England set in Kenya’s Rift Valley. In the…
Wild life
Northern Kenya If I go out in darkness I dread neither the leopard nor the lion but I recoil from…
Wild life
Mogadishu I return to Mogadishu to find it’s calm – only a few assassinations, hit-and-run attacks, IEDs or suicide bombs…
Wild life
He was under a tiny patch of shade under a tree in one of the earth’s remotest spots. At Nadapal,…
Wild life
Kigali Eighteen years after Rwanda’s bloodbath I disembarked from my flight and was surprised to see that mortar craters no…
Wild life
Kenya coast A loud crash woke us in the middle of our first night at the beach house. ‘Robbers must…
Wild life
Laikipia My new pride and joy is a pedigree Boran bull named Woragus 317. We know him as Ollie. Sired…
Wild life
Juba After an all-night rainstorm in Juba I woke to see the mosquito that bit me in the dark. Now,…
Wild life
Laikipia, Kenya Darkness was closing in and one of the sheep was lost. A search party formed. On my Kenya…
Wild life
I looked at the bomb craters and their shrapnel blast patterns. Dozens of metres away, rocks and tree trunks were…
Wild life
Kenya At Nairobi’s Muthaiga Club this week I bumped into Stanley Johnson, author of the superb memoir Stanley, I Presume…
Wild life
Wau, South Sudan ‘Let’s visit the brewery,’ said Ken when we reached Wau. We were dusty and parched. It was…
Wild life
Kenya In protest against the lack of law and order in my farming district I have decided to dye my…