As I pick my way around the debris in Zhongyi market in Lijiang, our guide points out the yak section. Windpipes, cleaned intestines and huge wobbly magenta livers are neatly laid out on the filthy floor, while the more expensive cuts are arranged on trestles. My eyes are drawn to a row of small boys enthusiastically slurping up noodles swimming in a dark beefy-looking broth.
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Sybil Kapoor travelled with Abercrombie & Kent. A ten-day itinerary to China including Beijing, Lijiang, Yunnan and Xian from £3,795 per person based on two people travelling together, including flights, transfers, accommodation with some meals and excursions. 0845 485 1527; www.abercrombiekent.co.uk
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